Anyone got any advice on stripping paint from resin vehicles? I've got a
couple of GZG jeeps
that I spray-painted a base color that I'm not
happy with...
Soak over night with...
Pine-sol - Works great and eco friendly
or
Brake Fluid - Works real good too, but must be washed with a cleaner
(ahh like
pine-sol) to remove any residue.
Then scrub with an old tooth brush. Neither of these should damage the resin,
but I'd test it on a wheel or turret if your worried.
Ted Arlauskas <ted@naxera.com> on 11/17/99 09:40:31 AM
Please respond to gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
To: gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
I've used acetone with good results. Also, someone once recommended oven
cleaner.
Mike
Michael Miserendino Senior Software Engineer Lincoln Re mtmiserendino@lnc.com
> owner-gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU at internet 11/17/99 12:43PM >>>
Soak over night with...
Pine-sol - Works great and eco friendly
or
Brake Fluid - Works real good too, but must be washed with a cleaner
(ahh like
pine-sol) to remove any residue.
Then scrub with an old tooth brush. Neither of these should damage the resin,
but I'd test it on a wheel or turret if your worried.
Ted Arlauskas <ted@naxera.com> on 11/17/99 09:40:31 AM
Please respond to gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
To: gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
cc: (bcc: Aron Clark/AM/Avid)
Subject: Stripping paint ...
Anyone got any advice on stripping paint from resin vehicles? I've got a
couple of GZG jeeps
that I spray-painted a base color that I'm not
happy with...
-Ted
Oven cleaner is great. It won't eat through plastic like acetone, it
won't chew through metal, it's cheap and leaves a lemony-fresh scent.
For extra bonus points, you could also clean the oven, which inevitably
happens whenever I use oven cleaner for stripping miniatures. I suppose if you
use brake fluid, you could fix your brakes, but the odds are that the oven
needs cleaning more than the brakes need fixing.
If you get oven cleaner on your hands (who needs gloves), you can neutralize
it by pouring vinegar on your hands.
Paul
> Michael T Miserendino wrote:
> I've used acetone with good results. Also, someone once recommended
Be VERY careful using acetone on resin (polyester resin, as we use in the
UK, anyway) - it is a solvent for it, and while it MAY not harm the
cured resin if used in small quantities I certainly wouldn't immerse a casting
in it for too long!
Jon (GZG)
> Mike
the one thing that I have found that works really well is call Poly's brush
restorer. Just soak the miniatures in that for an hour or so and the paint
just peels off. Can be used for either arcylic or enamal paint. You can also
use it on plastic and resin miniatures, but be careful, the stuff can melt the
plastic. I normall soak the model in some water after. This seems to stop the
process.
Slim
[quoted original message omitted]
> Ted Arlauskas wrote:
> Anyone got any advice on stripping paint from
Enamel, Acrylic or what? First, whatever solvent you use, test on the bottom
of the vehicle first.
I've used non-caustic Oven Cleaner (works adequately on acrylic,
brilliantly on enamel, not-so-well on generic spray white), but TEST
FIRST.
I should have clarified what I applied acetone to. I only use it on metal
minis. I think the oven cleaner will be a better all around solution.
Mike
Michael Miserendino Senior Software Engineer Lincoln Re mtmiserendino@lnc.com
> owner-gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU at internet 11/17/99 07:08PM >>>
Be VERY careful using acetone on resin (polyester resin, as we use in the
UK, anyway) - it is a solvent for it, and while it MAY not harm the
cured resin if used in small quantities I certainly wouldn't immerse a casting
in it for too long!
Jon (GZG)
> Mike
> Michael T Miserendino wrote:
> I should have clarified what I applied acetone to. I only use it on
When we did a long comparison test on rec.games.miniatures the pinesol /
savlon solutions came out way ahead of any of the other products.
Not only do they remove paint from both metal and plastic, but they're safe to
use too.
All you have to do is soak the mini in the solution for roughly 24 hours then
remove it and brush any paint from cracks and crevasses using a dry
(old)
toothbrush.
It's always a good idea to wash figures off in normal cold water after
cleaning.
---
> On 19-Nov-99 at 10:02, Steve Gill (Steve@caws.demon.co.uk) wrote:
The worst I have had is one that was glosscoated with the good Krylon gloss
coating and then coated with Testors dull coat. I had to let that one soak in
pinesol for about 3 days.
One caveat, all pine oils are not created equal where stripping paint is
concerned. I only buy PineSol because the cheaper brands are hit or miss.
Thanks. I'll give a try.
Mike
Michael Miserendino Senior Software Engineer Lincoln Re mtmiserendino@lnc.com
> owner-gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU at internet 11/19/99 10:01AM >>>
> I should have clarified what I applied acetone to. I only use it on
When we did a long comparison test on rec.games.miniatures the pinesol /
savlon solutions came out way ahead of any of the other products.
Not only do they remove paint from both metal and plastic, but they're safe to
use too.
All you have to do is soak the mini in the solution for roughly 24 hours
then remove it and brush any paint from cracks and crevasses using a dry
(old)
toothbrush.
It's always a good idea to wash figures off in normal cold water after
cleaning.
---
Steve Gill
> The worst I have had is one that was glosscoated with the good Krylon
Another safety tip from sad personal experience: always wear rubber gloves
when washing and scrubbing the minis in the PineSol bath. I had all the skin
dry out and peel off both hands. Not too attractive and rather painful for the
first couple of days....
Well, now I know, don't I? :-)
Ouch! I have a set of metal tongs that I use to place and retreive figures
from my pine oil bath.
I found them in our kitchen. I asked my wife if she wanted them back after I
was done and she said no.
:-) Oops...
[quoted original message omitted]