After catching up with this weekend's messages, I'm left with the lyrics of
Billy Joel's "Angry Young Man" (And there's always a place for the angry
young man/ With his fist in the air and his head in the sand...) ringing
in my ears. That's all well and good -- it managed to drive the Muppet
Movie soundtrack out of my brain, where it's been tying up processing power
for well over a week now -- but I'd rather bring my mind back around to
something even less relevant to my daily life...like painting miniatures.
Thus, a survey of sorts: You Stargrunt players, how many of you bother
painting the eyes on your miniatures? I'm speaking mainly to the
25mm/28mm
folks here, although any of you crazed 15mm enthusiasts are free to speak up
here as well.
(Give a moment or two to the angry young man/ With his foot in his mouth
and his heart in his hand....)
Any of you who paint eyes on your 6mm infantry, on the other hand, are
cordially invited to keep this fact to yourselves, lest you infect the rest of
us with your madness.
Me, I paint the eyes. And I'm starting to wonder if it's really worth the
trouble. You see, I follow a few simple steps when painting eyes:
1) Paint the eye socket a very dark shade of the skin color -- usually
medium brown for caucasian figures.
2) Paint the eyeballs a light gray -- white is too bright.
3) Dot the first eyeball with a point of black, resulting in a perfect eye,
the Platonic Ideal of a 25mm miniature eye, an eye so perfect as to make
Leonardo himself weep with envy.
4) Paint the other pupil.
5) Look at the miniature, and consider it in the light of years of painting
experience.
6) Admit to myself that the figure now looks like Bill the Cat.
7) Curse.
8) Repaint the second eye.
9) Return to step 4, and repeat for about half an hour.
10) Decide that, at last, the second eye is good enough.
11) Move on to the next miniature, and return to step one.
As you can imagine, this makes painting any decent sized force into an almost
Sisyphean task. It's no coincidence that my largest forces are either wearing
full visored helmets, or have eyes without any pupils at all. See these guys,
for example...
http://www.users.voicenet.com/~johncrim/Bogies.html
....of which I managed to paint some 80 miniatures in a little over two weeks.
Big bulging eyes, no details, and they look pretty good with a bit of gloss.
(But his honor is pure and his courage as well / And he's fair and he's
true and he's boring as hell/ And he'll go to the grave as an angry old
man.)
So, I'm considering changing my habits. For character figures, intended for
RPG use, eyes have their place. For wargame minis, painted and deployed en
mass, it doesn't seem worth the effort. Just darken the eye sockets,
and there you go -- looks good enough on the tabletop. Besides, at
least for SGII, you generally want more attention being paid to the uniform
than to the face anyway.
Although if you are a firm believe in WYSIWYG gaming, deploying an army
without eyes is just asking for trouble.
So, in the interest of starting an interesting discussion which will no doubt
degenerate into a bitter argument over the innate superiority of American
eyes,
I'd tap into the vast resources of the mass-mind that is the GZGlist and
see what they thought. Because I *care*.
That and, y'know, it's been kind of a slow day so far.
Stuart Murry just gave a painting seminar at GZGECC on painting figures for
minatures wargaming (as opposed to contests).
On of the things he suggested was to just wash the face of the minature with a
darker (flesh?) wash. This darkens the eyes and brings out other facial
features.
OTOH, he suggested if you wanted to paint the eyes, do the following
(IIRC):
1. Paint and wash (with ink, not soap) miniature's face. 2. Paint eye socket
black or dark brown. 3. Paint eye socket white (don't cover all of black).
4. Paint irus/pupil.
5. Paint orignal flesh color across top of eye as eyelid.
I have just started doing 15mm Stargrunt and do not plan to paint the eyes.
-----
Brian Bell
-----
[quoted original message omitted]
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:21:02 -0500 (EST), "John Crimmins"
> <johncrim@voicenet.com> wrote:
> Thus, a survey of sorts: You Stargrunt players, how many of you bother
I do, but it depends on the miniature.
When I had GW figures, the Orks and Squads looked much better after painting
eyes. I haven't bothered painting them on my GZG figures, though (Japanese
mercs are squinting, most of the NSL panzergrenadiers have goggles). I will
paint eyes on my Jagers when I get to them, and I do paint eyes on my Ral
Partha Call of Cthulhu figures.
> 1) Paint the eye socket a very dark shade of the skin color -- usually
I do that.
> 2) Paint the eyeballs a light gray -- white is too bright.
I usually use white, myself, but either works fine.
> 3) Dot the first eyeball with a point of black, resulting in a perfect
This is where it breaks down. I tried a dot and got the same thing you did.
Instead, I do a black spot so that the middle of the eye is black, from one
eye lid to another. When you look at it, only the outside and inside corners
of the eye are white. When you back up, the effect looks pretty good.
> As you can imagine, this makes painting any decent sized force into an
Most of my eye painting takes, on average, maybe 2 to 5 minutes per figure.
Sometimes much, much less (you get the spot just the way you want it). I like
the end result, and no one looks like they just got startled in the shower.
> Stuart Murry just gave a painting seminar at GZGECC on painting figures
*LOTS OF SNIPPING*
Oh, the joys of knowing your own limitations. If I manage to get the face
painted without the figure looking too ugly, I'm a happy camper.
2B^2
> On Mon, 11 Mar 2002, John Crimmins wrote:
> Thus, a survey of sorts: You Stargrunt players, how many of you bother
I don't paint eyes on 15mm figures. As for 25mm, that depends on the type. I
don't paint them on GZG figures, as they don't have oversized eye sockets;) On
Grenadier, Wargames Foundry and GW figures, I do paint the eyes.
Note: 'I don't paint eyes' means I don't paint the white of eyes and pupils. I
do shade the face, so the eye sockets look darker than the rest
of the face, and do stand out - just looks like the eyes are mostly
lidded.
> 3) Dot the first eyeball with a point of black, resulting in a
When I paint eyes, I paint a vertical black line, between the eyelids, or
a semi-circle at the lower or upper edge - the iris and pupil are
usually never fully uncovered except when eyes are really opened WIDE.
Cheers,
Something tells me I've dropped back in JUST when I shouldn't.
John, the Boggies look smashing, in the main, to me. However, on the topic, I
thought the idea was that you wouldn't see the whole of the 'dot', that
is, the iris/pupil. If you look in a mirror, you'll see the tops and
bottoms of the iris' are concealed by your lids.
So, instead of whole dots, 0 0, you should see rounded centers, () (
).
As a couple of your lads look that way already, I gather I'm missing the
point. What's new? ;->=
***
Oh, the joys of knowing your own limitations. If I manage to get the face
painted without the figure looking too ugly, I'm a happy camper.
***
Good gosh, you don't think *I* was speaking from personal experience, do you?
Last painting I did was all 'frizzy', because I couldn't even get the
primer right. ;->=
> 1) Paint the eye socket a very dark shade of the skin color --
Ok a little tip I was forced into. Paint the eyes looking to the left or right
(both should look the same way):) I found it easier to paint eyes that way.
Try and get it in the middle on both is asking for it.
> So, in the interest of starting an interesting discussion which will
I couldn't possible see myself focussing on that spectacle of an arguement.
I'm running before they send the Narn (blind as a) Bat Squad:)
Jeremey
On Monday, March 11, 2002, at 12:37 PM, Bell, Brian K (Contractor) wrote:
> Stuart Murry just gave a painting seminar at GZGECC on painting
(snip)
> OTOH, he suggested if you wanted to paint the eyes, do the following
Another approach along these lines is after part two put two white dots on
either side of the eye...leaving some dark contrasts on the all the edges of
the eye and in the center. This can give the illusion of the pupil being
rounded but with shadows widening the bottom and top of the pupil.
> From: devans@uneb.edu
> Good gosh, you don't think *I* was speaking from personal experience,
Last painting job I did was an RPG fantasy fig, a highlander with a claymore.
I was unemployed at the time and couldn't afford acrylics, had to
use my old modeling paint (oil-based, so say goodbye to inking/washing).
It
came out ok, but never again will I use those paints. I can't imagine doing a
whole bunch of 25mm figs (Makes me glad I'm a DSII'er and not into
SG).
2B^2
> Germ Wrote:
> I couldn't possible see myself focussing on that spectacle of an
You'd better hope they don't make contact with you. If they do, I'll lens you
a hand (When it comes to puns, I'm an apt pupil).
2B^2
In a message dated 3/11/02 12:26:14 PM Central Standard Time,
> johncrim@voicenet.com writes:
> of which I managed to paint some 80 miniatures in a little over two
Have you tried painting the eyeball FIRST (with the pupil of course) THEN
paint the eyelids.
> John Crimmins wrote:
25/28mm - Yes, primarily because most of the people who I play
games with also paint the eyes. Peer pressure is a powerful thing... I do,
however, buy figures with closed visors just so I don't have to work on the
eyes...:)
15mm - No. I tried and failed a couple of times so far...
> On Monday, March 11, 2002, at 01:09 PM, Brian Bilderback wrote:
That was way too cornea. Fifty lashes!
> On Monday, March 11, 2002, at 01:09 PM, Brian Bilderback wrote:
> I couldn't possible see myself focussing on that spectacle of an
Gease you guys. Not a monocle of self control amongst the two of you (or
myself for that matter). 'See' what happens when the puns go out of
control. If I'm not careful I'll be framed for the responsibility of this
whole debacle. Oh well...guess I should focus on the projects that
I'm ignoring at the moment, procrastinating by viewing in on the ongoing
discussions of this list.
:))
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:37:24 -0500, "Bell, Brian K (Contractor)"
<Brian.Bell@dscc.dla.mil> wrote:
> Stuart Murry just gave a painting seminar at GZGECC on painting
I would have liked to attend that one, actually -- no matter how much
experience you have, there's always *something* to learn -- but I was
too busy having my head handed to me in Carnage Con Queso.
At the very least, I walked away with one consoling thought: My troops were
soon going to learn the answer to the question which has stumped hilosophers
since the very beginning of time: Are Awful Green Things edible? And, if so,
can they be barbequed?
Unfortunately, we didn't have any cheese to add to the recipe.
> On of the things he suggested was to just wash the face of the
I'm as willing as the next man to say nasty things about Games Workshop and
all their spawn, but this much must be said: Their "Flesh Wash" paint is
fantastic.
> OTOH, he suggested if you wanted to paint the eyes, do the following
That's pretty close to what I do, but I try to create the eyelid when I paint
the eye. I sort of flatten out the top of the oval, and paint the pupil as a
half circle covered by the lid.
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:37:26 -0600, Allan Goodall <agoodall@att.net>
wrote:
> > 3) Dot the first eyeball with a point of black, resulting in a
Thanks -- that's one to try. I tend to forget that not everyone is
going to be staring at the figures as closely as I do when I'm painting them.
> > As you can imagine, this makes painting any decent sized force into
I like
> the end result, and no one looks like they just got startled in the
My problem -- well, one of many -- is that I tend to get frustrated with
my paint jobs far too easily. I've taken to getting the face finished first,
because if the face is done (and looks good) I am far more likely to actually
finish the figure. As a result, I spend more time on the faces of the minis
than on the the rest of the figure. I need to learn to say "That's good
*enough*, dammit."
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:46:51 -0600, devans@uneb.edu wrote :
> Something tells me I've dropped back in JUST when I shouldn't.
C'mon in, the water's fine!
> John, the Boggies look smashing, in the main, to me. However, on the
My rounded centers -- sounds like a candy ad, dunnit? -- tend to be more
in the way of rounded off-centers. (This is actually turning into a
grand metaphor for my life as a whole....) I can get the eyes uncrossed
eventually, but it takes more time than it really should.
> As a couple of your lads look that way already, I gather I'm missing
Point? Point? Ha! We *laugh* at points! Points are too Euclidean for us! We
have curves, slopes, subtly disturbing angles...but no points. Points are for
the norms, the pinks, the grayfaces!
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:53:37 -0000, "Germ" <germ@germy.co.uk> wrote :
> > 1) Paint the eye socket a very dark shade of the skin color --
So simple, so obvious...no wonder I never thought of that one! Something else
to try tonight.
> > So, in the interest of starting an interesting discussion which will
You are a bad, bad man and should be deeply ashamed of yourself. You're giving
this list a black eye, you are.
Generally speaking I do paint the eyes.
Bit of black, white to either side leaving an iris, and then flesh to cover
the bits that don't look like eye.
I painted a NAC platoon a few weeks ago and those figures without visors
lowered did look better after the eyes were painted in.
This weekend though I painted a platoon of new PAU figures. Their helmets
overhang their faces quite a bit and I thought that painted eyes would look
strange as they would be in deep shadow.
Kind of not sure that I like the result but will stick with it for now.
So it really depends on the figure's headgear.
Regards,
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:28:38 -0600, Kevin Walker <sage@chartermi.net>
wrote:
> Gease you guys. Not a monocle of self control amongst the two of you
Geez, guys, can we put a lid on these puns? There are people on this list with
guns, and I don't like feeling like I'm in someone's sights! They might lose
control and mascara the lot of us! I don't want to live the rest of my life
hiding behind the brow of a hill, waiting for someone to drop the hammer on me
and rub me out in a blink.
Remember, it's all fun and games until someone loses an eye... then it's a
sport.
Iris my case...
From: Bell, Brian K (Contractor) Brian.Bell@dscc.dla.mil
> Stuart Murry just gave a painting seminar at GZGECC on painting figures
I happen to have the notes right here. For 2 and 3 he said "oval"--you
wouldn't cover the whole socket. Instead of painting the whole eye while and
spotting the iris, you can also just dab white for the corners, which Stuart
says is easier. Either way, you paint the eyelid afterwards.
He also said, "Eyes can look good on 28mm figs but are not so essential on
20mm or 25mm. If you paint eyes on 15mm or 6mm you are insane!"
For 15mm, when I go back and blackline the details, I'll use a bit on the eyes
to show the trooper squinting in the sun, but that's all. I
haven't painted any 25mms that don't have full-face helmets yet.
<Snip a bunch of painting tips>
> For 15mm, when I go back and blackline the details, I'll use
I've seen this a couple of times that people use pens of some type for
highlights and such. My question - what kind of pens do people use? Is
there a brand I should look for? Do they have colors other than black?
Thanks
> <Snip a bunch of painting tips>
Is
> there a brand I should look for? Do they have colors other than
Pigma-Micron Technical Pens, you should be able to find them in most/all
art stores.
I think the ones I have are 0.1 mm in size (the smallest I could find).
I've got black, blue, and red (they also make a number of other colors (I
remember seeing orange as well). I use black for human eyes, red for alien
critters, and I bought the blue to try my hand at tattoos (haven't tried it
yet).
I've also noticed that my eyes look "better" if I leave more white on the
outsides of the eyes than the inside. If I dot in the middle of the whites,
they end up looking in two different directions. I haven't had any troubles
with cross eyed miniatures (yet!).
Hope that helps,
DarylL
> Thanks
> Rick Rutherford wrote:
> >> I couldn't possible see myself focussing on that spectacle of an
We'd better put a lid on this before we get browbeaten by the list. You know,
spare the rod.....
2B^2
From: Mike "No collateral damage--we *meant* to shoot them" Hudak:
> I've seen this a couple of times that people use pens of some type for
Stuart recommended an archivist pen, available at Michael's craft store, and I
didn't see any color other than black. I have also used
ultra-fine-point felt tip permanent markers (which do come in colors and
are available from Office Max), but you have to be very careful when you
apply lacquer afterwards--the solvent in the spray can make the marker
ink run. This is okay if you want to soften/feather the lines, but try
it first on something non-essential.
John Crimmins said:
> <snip> As a result, I spend more time on the faces of the minis than on
Stuart told the tale of carefully painting and shading and highlighting and
blending colors on some figs, working hours on each one. He set them out on
the table and the other players said "wow, those look great!" and he was
happy. Then he set out another squad, on which he'd spent something like an
hour, total. And the players said "wow, those look great too!"....
> At 12:55 11/03/02 -0600, Kevin wrote:
> Another approach along these lines is after part two put two white dots
Works for Beth and I.
Cheers
> At 02:19 11/03/02 -0500, Rick wrote:
> 15mm - No. I tried and failed a couple of times so far...
For me 15mm are normally larger armies, corp sized groups of Napoleonic
troops. So I avoid painting eyes here, except for 'personalities' like
generals if the miniature lends itself to the process.
Cheers
> At 03:00 11/03/02 -0500, Mike wrote:
Is
> there a brand I should look for? Do they have colors other than black?
Drafting pens are good, I used to use Dad's old ones and yes there is
different coloured ink.
Cheers
> > I've seen this a couple of times that people use pens of some type
Is
> > there a brand I should look for? Do they have colors other than
Someone mentioned to be careful since technical pens have a tendency to
"reactivate" when hit with a top coat, making them run and/or get
fuzzy when top coating your miniatures.
I thought I should add that the Pigma-Micron ones don't seem to have
this problem. I have never seen it happen since I started using
them and from anecodotal evidence from several mini-painting forums
suggests that others haven't either.
The above advice comes with my iron-clad non-guarantee (I don't
guarantee
it! Results may vary.) :-)
Still hoping this helps, DarylL
G'day,
> Thus, a survey of sorts: You Stargrunt players, how many of
I paint eyes on my 25mms <well the human ones at least;)>, but usually just
leave the "eyes" black on 15mms, which still works OK.
> 1) Paint the eye socket a very dark shade of the skin color
I just keep the balck from the undercoat.
> 2) Paint the eyeballs a light gray -- white is too bright.
Cream is OK, but white isn't too bad... could be my black undercoat though.
> 3) Dot the first eyeball with a point of black...
Actually I've found it works better if you put in a spot of another colour,
blue, brown, green, grey.... red if they're supposed to be possessed. Then add
the black dot and the eyelids. Works well and less (if any) of the "my gosh
that gave me a start"
Cheers
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:46:03 -0500, "laserlight@quixnet.net"
<laserlight@quixnet.net> wrote:
> John Crimmins said:
Seems almost Zen, really. "And thus was the gamer enlightened."
At risk of sounding like a cheater... consider Micron Pigma pens. Trust me
they are worth their weight gold when it comes to brush painting eyeballs.
I learned about them from a painting site that I cannot find the URL for
right now... or I would share it so you can see the other non-eyeball
things you can do with them.
[quoted original message omitted]
> On Monday, March 11, 2002, at 03:14 PM, Derek Fulton wrote:
> I've seen this a couple of times that people use pens of some type
> Is
Drafting pens that you fill yourself are a little more work, but they allow
you to use any color ink you can find.:)
[quoted original message omitted]
I've done eyes on 6mm figures. Not that I'm nuts or anything. They were GW
Orks, which have enough of a depression in the eye sockets that you can slap
red on for they eyes, and then do the faces in green. Easier than it sounds,
and if some of the eyes get slopped over nobody will notice.
> Derk Groeneveld wrote:
> On Mon, 11 Mar 2002, John Crimmins wrote:
Quoting John Crimmins <johncrim@voicenet.com>:
> Thus, a survey of sorts: You Stargrunt players, how many of you bother
I used to paint them on fantasy figures: Orcs (and Orks) got red eyes with
little white highlight blips on them...
But actually, I'm just debating whether to do faces on the NAC figures. I've
done the figures, and they're fine for gaming, but currently are flat flesh
colour (where appropriate). But they're a little more delicate than fantasy
figures usually are so I'm wondering if it's worth doing much
shading/eyes/stubble etc.
Human eyes I always used to do by: washing the face leather coloured, fill eye
with white, pupil in black and then use black then flesh to close the eye back
up again.
Avoiding the Bill-the-Cat - personally I've always found it easier to
make each figure looking somewhere rather than straight ahead. That way if you
get it wrong, it just looks like they're looking somewhere else than where you
From: "Allan Goodall" <agoodall@att.net>
> Geez, guys, can we put a lid on these puns? There are people on this
JOHN, OLE DAWGIE paints complete eyes on figures with bareheads, berets, short
billed caps, or narrow brimmed hats.
figures with long billed caps, wide brimmed hats, and helmets just get a small
white dot.
this is because my own experiences in real life showed me that when you were
close enough to actually see eyes (unaided with my own eyes!)
a pair of "white-ish" half orbs were what i actually saw.
at any distance, there are NO EYES showing in a human face, just a flesh
colored or ainted blur.
OF COURSE, MINIME, gets a pair of steely blue eyes in all of his incarnations
peering out f under his open faced headgear.
with closed helmet visors (high tech or medieval) or closed faced helms, i do
not bother to paint MINIME's belligerent blue eyes.
> Daryl Lonnon wrote:
It depends on the ink, and unfortunately, the only way to tell is
through trial-and-error. However, if you let the ink dry for a week
(or so) before spraying on the coat of sealant, the ink is a lot less likely
to run.
> Rick Rutherford wrote:
> It depends on the ink, and unfortunately, the only way to tell is
Too bad someone can't add a list to their website, people could contribute to
it tips about different paints, glues, and other scenery & figure prep
products, including advice on particular idiosyncrasies of those products, eg:
"This paint has a tendency to glop up rather quickly" "This technical pen X
will run if you hit it with a topcoat, but pen Y will not"
etc......
2B^2
Funny thought. In a hundred (or so) years, gamers will be asking how to
program the nanites so that the eyelid muscles on thier 6mm miniature operate
correctly and how get them to make the eyelash color the correct shade of red.
> On Tuesday, March 12, 2002, at 10:13 AM, Brian Bilderback wrote:
> Rick Rutherford wrote:
There is a mini-painter list at Yahoo! Groups that has a number of
techniques sequestered away in their files section. The painted figures,
although mainly fantasy, are great samples to inspire painters to extreme
levels of workmanship, or to learning new techniques that speed up table top
quality painting too.
The list in question there is <mini-painter>. There are several other
miniature related lists, including a sculptors list where the likes of Bobby
Jackson, Sandra Garrity, Jason Wiebe and a number of others post from time to
time and give advice to those of use how need the help. It's <1listSculpting>.
I hope these help.
> Brian Bell wrote:
> Funny thought. In a hundred (or so) years, gamers will be asking how to
Until their nanite rebel and they find themselves \under attack by
Lilliput....
2B^2
> Kevin Walker wrote:
> There is a mini-painter list at Yahoo!
> The list in question there is <mini-painter>.
> I hope these help.
Very much, thanks.
2B^2
> On Tuesday, March 12, 2002, at 11:06 AM, Brian Bilderback wrote:
> There is a mini-painter list at Yahoo!
Oh, I should warn you though. The traffic on it gets going with some
months having 3,000+ emails or more.
> On Tuesday, March 12, 2002, at 11:12 AM, Flak Magnet wrote:
> I am on both lists, and I can attest to the quality of the people and
Too many lists, too little time.
I am on both lists, and I can attest to the quality of the people and
information on those lists. They are excellent. (My participation in the lists
notwithstanding. *grin*)
--Flak
> On Tue, 2002-03-12 at 11:47, Kevin Walker wrote:
+++Snipped Post about:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mini-painter
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/1listsculpting
> Kevin Walker wrote:
> Oh, I should warn you though. The traffic on it gets going with some
Ok, thanks for the warning. I suppose I'll just have to lurk and not join
(since their files are not members only).
2B^2
> Daryl Lonnon wrote:
This *can* provide a nice effect. I used magic marker to mark camo on my NSL
PA, then sprayed it to make the marker run a bit and soften the edges (and
then washed it with white here and there to further the effect). I used these
for Silverstone, but it looks like Jerry didn't
get pictures of them--maybe Tom or someone did?
> +++Snipped Post about:
Two other useful lists dedicated to specific scales:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/15mm_Painter/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/6mm-Miniatures/
And for those into really small scales:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/2mm/
Greetings
[quoted original message omitted]
> On Tue, 12 Mar 2002, laserlight@quixnet.net wrote:
> Daryl Lonnon wrote:
> I used these for Silverstone, but it looks like Jerry didn't get
Magic marker 'paint' on minis? Interesting - how did it turn out
compared to regular actual paint?
Derek is, of course, probably going to try and arrange to burn you as a
heretic. This is worse than the 'spray-can-only' infidels!
I've used black technical pen on a few of my minis, and haven't yet had a
problem with reactivating under spray varnish. Three or four minis does not a
comprehensive survey make, though.
> Magic marker 'paint' on minis? Interesting - how did it turn out
In the places where I did it right, it gives a cloudy effect which I haven't
been able to reproduce with paint. I have a photo somewhere but I'm hoping
someone took pics of Silverstone which show them.
> Derek is, of course, probably going to try and arrange to burn you
Derek has a long line ahead of him.
> At 06:20 12/03/02 -0800, you wrote:
The use of pens is approved, anything that brings detail to the miniature is
deemed good, so sayth the holy writ.;)
BUT FAIL AND YOU WILL BURN FOREVER IN HELL! WITH LEGIONS OF TINY MINIATURES
PRODDING YOUR SOFTER REGIONS WITH TINY FORKS.
Have a nice day
Pigma also has an incredibly tiny point magic marker they refer to as a
'brush'. It's not terribly opaque, but I think done right, say, black and
brown on a light green, might be interesting.
Also, as I pointed out to someone here, you can use refillable drafting
pens. Tres expensive as start-up, but there is WHITE ink, and you can
dot
the eyes on 6mm figs with the right tip. ;->=
***
BUT FAIL AND YOU WILL BURN FOREVER IN HELL! WITH LEGIONS OF TINY MINIATURES
PRODDING YOUR SOFTER REGIONS WITH TINY FORKS.
***
Reminds me of the days before Karen started her attempts at civilizing me. I
used to leave things on one side of the bed, such as books half read, or model
kits started. If I had been doing metal figs back then, rolling in one's sleep
COULD have been hazardous...