My brother and I resently bought some computer speakers, and some of the
packing seemed useable for my starwars stormtrooper mini's.
I have three pieces of styrofoam sheet about 1/4" thick, by about 6.25"
wide, by 15.75" long. I was thinking of using it to make some modular interior
walls. I could base each wall section on some corrigated cardboard, and cover
them with paper so I could decorate 'em.
Does anyone have any other, or better ideas? Has anyone heard of anything
similar?
Any help acceptable.
> At 11:36 PM 3/26/99 -0500, you wrote:
I made a bunker for Stargrunt out of packing styrafoam recently. I sanded the
styrafoam down with some fine grit then covered it with a few layers of my
special texture mix to fill in the space between the beads. It is
1/3
spackling paste, 1/3 Elmer's White Glue All, and 1/3 water. It looks
better than paper or card IMO and it protects the styrafoam so you can
spraypaint it. After sanding down the texture I made some firing slits out of
plastic card and free floppy disks (thanks AOL). The guide tracks for the
metal disk guard ready made for firing slits. The insides of the plastic
floppy case have some interesting textures that I have used for other sci fi
terrain as well.
> My brother and I resently bought some computer speakers, and some of
> On Fri, 26 Mar 1999, Donald Hosford wrote:
> My brother and I resently bought some computer speakers, and some of
You might want to check out Terragenesis - great terrain site - mostly
concerned with GW (ewww) themed stuff, but great ideas, techniques, etc
-
lots of ideas for converting household 'garbage' - esp. styrofoam
packing!
<http://http://www.altdorf.com/terragenesis>
> My brother and I resently bought some computer speakers, and some of
If possible, you might want to use something heavier for the base, to make it
less likely to fall over. You could, for example, base
the sections on metal bases, around 10 x 40mm or 1/2 x 2". Wargame
Accessories bases come in cost 5-25 cents (US) each, depending on size.
And they're very thin, so you could get away with larger ones for
more stability--figures have little problem standing partially
on the base and partially on the table, which could be a problem with
corrugated cardboard bases. Not to mention that you'd need
to get some air-dry clay or something to fill the ends of the
cardboard bases.
Krylon "Living Colors" primer works great on Styrofoam (doesn't
eat it!). The "Living Colors" line is water-based, and doesn't
use the toluene propellant their regular paints use. It runs
about $3-$4 per 11 oz spray can.
If you want a nice, smooth wall, a couple coats of this on cut styrofoam
(i.e., it starts out fairly smooth) does pretty well. Or "paint" the foam with
thinned PVA (white) glue first to fill the gaps, sand lightly on a flat
surface, then primer it with whatever primer you like. (A "tacky glue" such as
Aleene's is preferable to Elmers.)
For rougher walls, "paint" the foam with PVA (un-thinned) and
roll it in a box of sand or (unused!) cat litter. After it dries, "paint" it
with thinned PVA to set it, then primer and paint.
You can create details (windows, doors, etc.) on the computer screen, print
them out, cut them apart, and glue them on (thinned PVA under and over them).
If you want them to stand out from the wall surface, you can glue individual
items to thin card or (my preference) scrap photo mat board. Straight pipes
can be just thread glued in place,
or use scrap electrical wires for larger and/or bent pipe.
When you're all done, be sure to give it a protective coating.
I prefer Xylene clear polyurethane spray (c. $4/11 oz can).
It provides a very tough, glossy coating. Two light coats of this on my minis
(painted with acrylics) make them as tough as if they were painted with
enamels. A light spray (or brush application) of dull coat or matte finish
kills the gloss for a more "realistic" appearance.
- Sam
> Samuel Reynolds wrote:
> If possible, you might want to use something heavier for the base,
Hadn't thought of the metal bases!
> Krylon "Living Colors" primer works great on Styrofoam (doesn't
> Brian Burger wrote:
> On Fri, 26 Mar 1999, Donald Hosford wrote:
> Ndege Diamond wrote:
> At 11:36 PM 3/26/99 -0500, you wrote:
Sounds interesting. How big was the bunker when you were finished?
> Donald Hosford wrote:
> Brian Burger wrote:
> At 09:51 PM 3/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
It's 1 ½" x 3 ½" x 5 ¼" with lots of indentations molded into the surface
that I placed the firing slits into. The styrofoam piece I made it out of
began life as the packing material that slides onto one end of a small
computer speaker to hold it solidly in it's box. The piece that held the other
end is due to become a SAM site with the bunker as the control center. Both
will make perfect targets for my NAC marines to perform commando raids upon.
Speaking of bunkers, didn't someone mention they had done up some house rules
for their use and demolition in Stargrunt at some time in the past or is that
my memory acting funny again?
> On Sat, 27 Mar 1999, Ndege Diamond wrote:
> At 09:51 PM 3/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
Very cool. I've used plastic blister packages for several bunkers recently.
The rectangular ones GeoHex and others put minis in make good bunkers, and I
recently used a tall rectangular blister as the base for an
anti-aerospace weapons system - great commando target.
> Speaking of bunkers, didn't someone mention they had done up some
The bunker & building house rules I wrote and Tom Barclay later added to
are on my webpages. See my .sig for the URL - go to the Stargrunt II
area, all the SG2 house rules we use are off there, along with loads of
related
items - bunker modelling ideas, for one.
Any suggestions for the rules welcomed,