G'day guys,
I' picked up a Paladin (the big wheeled tank) from Nic a while back and will
be trying to put it together in the next few months. A quick look makes it
pretty clear there is a sizeable gap between the two halves to fill. Derek
does have some putty ideas to try from his model building days, but I thought
I'd just double check to see if anyone with more recent experience had any
advice on the best stuff to use.
Thanks
> G'day guys,
Hi Beth,
Actually, rather than trying to fill the gap I'd sand the two hull
halves down till you get a good fit - put a sheet of fairly coarse
sandpaper or wet-and-dry flat on a good smooth work surface, then
sand the piece in a circular motion, checking for fit at regular intervals
(you'll be surprised how fast coarse grit cuts through the
resin!).
And wear a dust mask!
Resin dust: bad stuff for the lungs, eyes, mucous membranes, etc...
> On Monday 12 April 2004 03:53 am, Ground Zero Games wrote:
> Hi Beth,
> And wear a dust mask!
I dunno; I thought the winds in NZ were so constant and strong they just had
to be certain to be upwind...
Seriously, before anyone jumps up and states 'we're all experienced and know
that!', Flak's right in that any mention of working resin probably should have
the warning, just in case a newbie comes across the post in the future.
> Actually, rather than trying to fill the gap I'd sand the two hull
Depends on the casting, again. You can loose or alter details, especially if
the gap is mostly a concave void in the center. I don't think that's as likely
a problem with the GZG designs, as I think most are fairly flat in those
areas.
The_Beast
For small, thin gaps try Milliput (green) or one of the other "modeling"
two-part epoxy putties. Moderately expensive (here it's about $9.00 for
a 12" x1" strip)
For larger, or bulk filling you might try the auto store for Automotive Epoxy
(the brand name here is Bondo) which is about $16.00 per gallon.
Cheap, but much less durable is wall spackling paste (about $6.00 per quart)
it does have a tendency to chip or crack if dropped.
For very thin gaps you can try sand or other small dry filler then
filling the remainder with any thick 2-part epoxy gel (5-minute epoxy
works well - mix it, let it stand about 2 1/2 minutes then apply
quickly). This method does not work as well on gaps that have open ends since
the epoxy tends to run out.
The epoxies have the advantage that they will bond the parts together in
addition to filling the gap.
Remember to lightly sand the parts that the epoxy will adhere too to give it a
good rough surface to grab on to.
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
> >And wear a dust mask!
Yes, valid point. We DO have the warning on the header cards of our resin
kits.
Jon (GZG)
> Actually, rather than trying to fill the gap I'd sand the two hull
G'day Jon,
> Actually, rather than trying to fill the gap I'd sand the two hull
Thanks! And this I know Derek is good at so no problemo on the elbow grease
either;)
G'day
> I dunno; I thought the winds in NZ were so constant and
Well Tassie is upwind of NZ so I should be fine, but the NZers maybe
displeased.... or my dear Beast had you misplaced me geographically?;)
(By the way as an asthmatic I'm always careful about potential reactions to
modelling stuff... to the point two part epoxy is banned from the house)
> Depends on the casting, again. You can loose or alter
> I don't think that's as likely a problem with the GZG designs,
I will have a look when I get home but I don't think I'll lose much detail.
Basically you have the top of the tank and the bottom and both are slightly
concave so when you put them together there is a multiple mm gap in the
midline of the tank.
Cheers
> Well Tassie is upwind of NZ so I should be fine, but the NZers maybe
Heck, I'm 'merican; we're all geographically challenged.
It was more of a typographic stutter. Visuallized the right island, named the
wrong one. Age, I hate it...
The_Beast