[SG] Buildings

I'm currently being hassled by several SG players to start making 25mm scale
paper model buildings.

So simple question for you SG players. I am already working on the obligatory
concrete bunker and a rusty metal shack for rebels and other lowlifes to hide
in.

What else would people like for their SG battles?

Jeremey

On or about Fri, Jul 05, 2002 at 02:12:41PM +0100, Germ typed:
> What else would people like for their SG battles?

Speaking purely personally...

A monitoring/early warning station - basically a hut with some antennae
on it.

Obstacles - short pieces of razor-wire, etc. They look much better if
one can stand them up.

Cheers,

I've scratch built bunkers and the like from platic card but what I'm short of
is civilain dwellings, the kind of thing colonists and homesteaders would live
in.#

> Speaking purely personally...

> I've scratch built bunkers and the like from platic card but what I'm

Same question for both of you. What size buildings are preferable. The rusty
metal shack I've just done is about 6cm x 10cm and 4.5cm tall.

Jeremey

On or about Fri, Jul 05, 2002 at 02:34:49PM +0100, Germ typed:

> Same question for both of you. What size buildings are preferable.

That's about right for me; a variety of things of about that size,
perhaps combined with some two-storey buildings, would do very nicely
for the urban fight I'm planning...

Cheers,

> Same question for both of you. What size buildings are preferable.

Seems OK to me but I think the ability to combine them to make two storey
buildings wouldn't go amiss. A variety of uses would be useful

e.g.

Store shed / gararge / workshop = rusty shack
Customs or police post / Colonial Farm house = Adobe bungalow

Chris

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Jeremey

Thanks! and please let me just echo what others have already said. The size
you mention is good and rude colonial dwellings will be much appreciated.

Roger Burton West schrieb:
> On or about Fri, Jul 05, 2002 at 02:12:41PM +0100, Germ

A gun platform for an AA gun or missile, or for some troops. A rectangle with
low walls.

Greetings

Jeremey, I would have said that 6cm by 10cm is all right for a small shack,
but rather small for a normal dwelling module. The GZG modular bunker is based
on square units about 12cm on a side, and that is a small bunker. The model
used for display purposes on the GZG stand is in two sections each about
24cm square! As a rule of thumb, Jon uses 1/60 as the scale for 25mm.
Thus
a 1/300 scale model scaled up 5 times would be suitable for 25mm. Take a
look at your 1/300 buildings, multiply all dimensions by 5 and see what
you
get...

My advice would be to design a modular system so that all the special
buildings can be constructed from one or more standard modules. Great
idea..... I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

I am planning to use your modular starship corridors for FMA. Cheers, Mike

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> My advice would be to design a modular system so that all the special

Yeah modular sounds like the best way to go, especially given the restrictions
of how much building fits per sheet at 25mm scale.

Ok another question, do people think card buildings should be simple and quick
to make or would people prefer more detailed models?

I'm thinking with all the extra bits door frames, balconies you know all the
stick-out bits.

Also do people want interiors? Removable roofs to position figures better?

Jeremey

Mike Elliott schrieb:
> My advice would be to design a modular system so that all

For example a church/mosque/synagogue/temple - a basic assembly hall
plus the appropiate symbols, a church tower or minaret.

Greetings

If you need concertina coils go to the craft store and buy some wire for

stringing beads, get a three quarter inch d0owel rod and wrap it tight around
the dowel. Once you have the coil made stretch it a little, double it with
another coil and you have the inter-woven contertina coils that work
best. You can stretch the wire between wire posts attached to a base for razor
wire strands.

Jeremey,

I think a sheet of extras would be the way to go. For example a balcony that
has tabs in it, you could either glue or slit and glue to the main building
and have a new building.

Great Ideas!

Bob Makowsky

> --- "Germy.co.uk" <germ@germy.co.uk> wrote:

> Yeah modular sounds like the best way to go, especially given the
Modular would be ace.

> Ok another question, do people think card buildings should be simple
more detail..

> I'm thinking with all the extra bits door frames, balconies you
me too

> Also do people want interiors? Removable roofs to position figures
yes, yes and yes

> Jeremey

On Mon, 8 Jul 2002 09:51:04 +0100, "Paul Owen" <paul.owen@gtns.co.uk>
wrote:

> Modular would be ace.

I agree with Paul: modular, more detail, and able to get inside.

I would also like them, if it's possible, to be mountable on
foamcore/foamboard. The problem I have with paper buildings in 25mm is
that even mounted on card they tend to be a bit flimsy. I would prefer that I
could take a paper design, mount it on foamcore, and glue it together to give
it more strength. This may not require any kind of design change, or it might,
depending on what you intend to do with the interiors.

Note: not everyone has a duplex printer, so printing on both sides of a sheet
of paper can be problematic (though I suppose it is possible to have it
photocopied two sided). Even if you can, lining stuff up perfectly on the
opposite side is an issue. This may result in problems if you do any kind of
details for the interiors.

Hi Jeremey,

I agree, a sheet of extras would be a great way of doing this. If you wanted
to include building interiors, I would suggest making them "optional" also.
Having a removable roof would be useful, but actually detailed interiors that
don't get seen most of the time... personally I wouldn't bother, except in
unusual circumstances (like a really big
building - such as an industrial complex - where battling might actually
take place inside). For a single house or bunker or whatever, just being able
to take the roof off would be ok for me, and I've played with plenty
of buildings, bunkers, etc in the past that aren't open at all - where
we just move the models off the table when they go into the building, and put
their markers next to the building so we don't forget about them.

You might also consider proving suggestions/instructions for doing
"surface
detailing" with bits of balsa wood or sheet/rod styrene plastic or
whatever.  I've seen some extremely effective paper/card buildings
(medieval or old west, I think) where the person who owned them added "wooden"
structural beams using thin strips of balsa, and painted them to match the
rest of the building. Very little effort, and made them look great.

Having said that, your buildings are really good "as is", so this certainly
isn't necessary.

Thanks for all the efforts!

Adrian

> Jeremey,

Interiors with foam core become problematic as you need to take into account
the width of the foam core when drawing out the walls. Although
3/16" foam core is pretty standard, I think you can find
1/4" and 1/8" too.  If someone was trying to build a building with foam
core exterior and thick-card interior, some of the internal details
might not match up as well.

It is possible to have designs that minimize the impact of wall width (i.e. a
single hallway with a single row of rooms to each side) but complicated floor
plans with several various sized rooms next to each other may encounter
problems.

When designing stuff that will be pasted on two sides, make registration
marks - either actual marks or a certain set of wall fixtures near the
top of the wall that can be used to help line up the two sides of the wall
(i.e. glow strips that occur every inch or two at the top of the wall or a
tall narrow ventilator cover that appears on both sides of the wall in spots
across from each other.)

Some thoughts,

--Binhan

> -----Original Message-----

> I would also like them, if it's possible, to be mountable on

When you say a bit flimsy is that the general structure or the lack of being
able to put metal figures onto the say roof, balcony etc?

> Note: not everyone has a duplex printer, so printing on both sides of

Any interiors I do will be either like my recent drop pod model where the
interior is like wallpaper to be added or not as the person wishes. Or printed
on the same sheet and simply folded in half one side being the building
interior.

Jeremey

> Hi Jeremey,

Optional interiors would be em an option:) but what I'm looking at are
buildings which can play a more interactive roll in close quarters urban
fighting situations. The roof removal seems the best option for this.

Jeremey

On Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:24:11 +0100, "Germy.co.uk" <germ@germy.co.uk>
wrote:

> When you say a bit flimsy is that the general structure or the lack of

Well, I don't care for some paper models I've seen where the walls look like
they are warped inwards. They also look like what they are: paper buildings. I
prefer my buildings to look more solid, hence the thought of mounting them on
foamcore.

> Well, I don't care for some paper models I've seen

You may want to look at matte board, used for mounting photos and
paintings, available at your local frame shop / craft store.  A bit
thinner than foamcore but still stiff enough.

> Well, I don't care for some paper models I've seen where the walls

I think there is always going to be an element of warped card buildings. A lot
of it depends on the thickness of card they are printed on.

Where I think paper buildings do excel is for the need to have troops fighting
in urban settings. The ability to quickly produce a dozen or so
buildings like shops/bars/offices etc does appeal. Even if they do look
like paper buildings.

Jeremey