Hi guys.
Ok the mad modelmaker is at it again (that would be me). For those of you who
don't know me, I love to tinker with models when I'm making them, if for no
other reason than I have lots of fun doing it.
Anyway, a friend of mine gave me one of the Super-heavy dropships from
the
micro-tac range, and I've got this uncontrollable urge to make it
"functional". To this end I have cut open the rear loading section and hinged
the drop door, and I've cut open the hollow upper part of the hull to allow
access from the rear. The tricky part is going to be hollowing the base
suffiently.
:-)
I know resin is just basically plastic, so it's fairly soft. My first instinct
is to grab my router and go to town, but I don't want to a) shatter the piece,
or b) melt the resin onto my router bit.
On my first concern I don't _think_ it will shatter because I know the
router has plenty of power and speed to do the job (2 hp plunge router),
although I
will have to make damn sure the clamps are tight. :-) The second
concern is more of an issue, but I think if I were to take it slow enough it
will be ok. Unfortunately the router isn't variable speed so I'm stuck at the
full 30,000 rpm.
Anyone got a better idea or experience doing this?
BTW, if anyone is interested I'm using a magnet out of a hard drive to hold
the door closed.
Thanks, Bill
> I know resin is just basically plastic, so it's fairly soft.
Its very probably going to melt and fling hot plastic about
Drilling with a hi-speed motor drill has a similar effect.
Try it out on a test piece first if you have one.
a variable speed dremel and a tooth bit or cone grinder might be more
controllable. You could melt the hole with a hot soldering iron and then clean
it up with machine tool afterwards.
good luck - et us know what happens
On 23-Sep-99 at 11:20, bbrush@rev.state.ne.us (bbrush@rev.state.ne.us)
wrote:
> Hi guys.
I'd use a dremel rather than a router. All the epoxy and resin I've dealt with
(mostly epoxy) is extremely heat sensitive. With a dremel you have for more
control than a 2hp plunge router. If you MUST use the router I'd use a router
table.
Another solution could be a wood burner. I'd try it on a piece of resin first
to see how it handles it.
If you want to go to all this work, why not make a mold, cast one of your own
modified for what you want. Obviously you can't sell it, and it is too much
hassle to duplicate existing ones if you just want a duplicate, but for mods
it could be the way to go.
> On 23-Sep-99 at 11:33, Tim Jones (Tim.Jones@Smallworld.co.uk) wrote:
Just FYI, if you are buying a dremel buy a single speed dremel and get one of
the speed control attachments. I use a sewing machine peddle on mine, works
great.
> Roger Books wrote:
HH as in Honor Harrington?
I'm planning on starting to try and make some myself, now that there exists at
least one official design. (more with the new book in March I hear) I'd love
to compare notes...
Tom
> On 23-Sep-99 at 13:51, Thomas Pope (tpope@cs.cmu.edu) wrote:
My biggest problem so far has been the mental block dealing with the size of
these things. Obviously you can't use the same scale that the standard FT
ships are, a 1.2KM ship doesn't really fit, and that isn't even one of the big
ones.
I'm having minor mechanical problems (my resin says "read the box
for the mold you are using for the amount of hardenn\er"). I have
a mold for the end that I like, although it doesn't quite match
In a message dated 9/23/99 12:57:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
> books@mail.state.fl.us writes:
<<
What I really need is a better medium than fimo, the stuff is too elastic even
before baking. Anyone know what a "real" moldmaker uses?
> [quoted text omitted]
Are you using FIMO for the mold? Or are you using it to make the master, from
which you make the mold?
Try using Milliput to model in. You can make a rough shape allow it todry, add
more and sculpt, fairly flexible. When you the ship model you like, then
figure out how to make the mold from it. I should plaster of paris would make
a better MOLD than FIMO. AS an aside, try using SCULPY instead of FIMO, I find
it easier to work into a smooth consistency. I have to knead FIMO so much and
my hands can't take it. The white SCULPY is easier to work with than the
colored version, and if it's going to be a master for something, it certainly
does not have to be colored.
> On 23-Sep-99 at 14:46, Popeyesays@aol.com (Popeyesays@aol.com) wrote:
Sorry for not being clear, I'm using Fimo for the master. I'm making a latex
mold.
> Try using Milliput to model in. You can make a rough shape allow it
Thanks, I'll give that a shot, I should be swinging by the art place tonight
(need some more brass channel for basing ships) and I'll pick some up there.
> I should plaster of paris
I'll probably continue to use latex, it handles undercuts very well and is
cheap to use. The only problems I see with latex is it requires patience and
its lifetime isn't that great. However, if I make 6 BB's I will have my moneys
worth, and I can always make a new mold off of the first casting.
I tried doing some plaster casting, but the stuff stuck to my mold even with
the mold release and it destroyed my mold after the first casting.
:(
The professionals use Kneadatite, which is the green two part stuff you see GW
selling for exhorbitant amounts. I do know that it is available in art stores
and direct from the manufacturer. I don't know the contact info, but I could
get it for you.
BTW, the reason they use kneadatite is not because it's the best, but because
it stands up to the mold making process for the lead mini's the best. Most
people I know who sculpt and that don't have to worry about that use a
combination of
milli-put and kneadatite.
Bill
Popeyesays@aol.com on 09/23/1999 01:45:59 PM
Please respond to gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
To: gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
cc: (bcc: Bill Brush/InfSys/Revenue)
Subject Re: Resin vehicles - customizing
:
In a message dated 9/23/99 12:57:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
> books@mail.state.fl.us writes:
<<
What I really need is a better medium than fimo, the stuff is too elastic even
before baking. Anyone know what a "real" moldmaker uses?
> [quoted text omitted]
Are you using FIMO for the mold? Or are you using it to make the master, from
which you make the mold?
Try using Milliput to model in. You can make a rough shape allow it todry, add
more and sculpt, fairly flexible. When you the ship model you like, then
figure out how to make the mold from it. I should plaster of paris would make
a better MOLD than FIMO. AS an aside, try using SCULPY instead of FIMO, I find
it easier to work into a smooth consistency. I have to knead FIMO so much and
my hands can't take it. The white SCULPY is easier to work with than the
colored version, and if it's going to be a master for something, it certainly
does not have to be colored.
> On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Tim Jones wrote:
> Its very probably going to melt and fling hot plastic about
The resin bits from GZG just make lots of little filaments and dust when
I dremel them.
One hint when shaping lead bits with dremel cutter/grinder attachments
(the metal ones with teeth), use a bit of water on the part and in the
hole/grooves you are cutting. The water cools the bit and keeps it from
over heating. Over heating will cause it to loose its temper and soften.
Once it does that, the bit is useless.
> I know resin is just basically plastic, so it's fairly
I sell industrial plastics, so my response is, "what KIND of plastic?" If you
can tell me what resin it is, I can provide you with machining data, most
likely.
> I'm having minor mechanical problems (my resin says "read
I have
> a mold for the end that I like, although it doesn't quite
moldmaker
> uses?
Those of you in the US can call Castolite (they probably
have an 800 number, which you can get from 1-800-555-1212)
and ask them to send you photocopies of articles on mold making. Castolite
resin is acrylic or acrylic polyester, transparent, and you can buy color
pastes to add to it. I sell a gallon for something like $70, although I think
it comes in quarts as well.
In a message dated 9/23/99 2:00:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
> books@mail.state.fl.us writes:
<<
I'll probably continue to use latex, it handles undercuts very well and is
cheap to use. The only problems I see with latex is it requires patience and
its lifetime isn't that great. However, if I make 6 BB's I will have my moneys
worth, and I can always make a new mold off of the first casting.
I tried doing some plaster casting, but the stuff stuck to my mold even with
the mold release and it destroyed my mold after the first casting.
:(
> [quoted text omitted]
When you get these done. Post some pictures on the web. Be prepared to cast
more for other people if they turn out well.
In a message dated 99-09-23 11:20:27 EDT, you write:
<<
Anyway, a friend of mine gave me one of the Super-heavy dropships from
the
micro-tac range, and I've got this uncontrollable urge to make it
"functional". To this end I have cut open the rear loading section and hinged
the drop door, and I've cut open the hollow upper part of the hull to allow
access from the rear. The tricky part is going to be hollowing the base
suffiently.
:-)
> [quoted text omitted]
I have the same kit (it's been waiting for me to get to it for a few years).
I'm currious as to what paint scheme you used on yours?
Thanks,
Perry
Well I haven't painted it yet since it just came out of the wash and is still
in many pieces. Actually I was at the store today and picked up some styrene
sheets which gave me some further "customizing" ideas, so it may be a while
before it's in paintable condition. I'm actually thinking of not only having
the rear door open, but also having the top hull piece removable. Inside
perhaps I'll have an infantry deck over the tank deployment area.
When I do get around to painting it, I'll probably paint it similar to my NIR
FT fleet, which means various dark greens, with maybe a camo scheme. Although
camo on something that dwarfs a city block might be, shall we say a trifle
ineffective? :-)
BTW, I have also drilled out the forward fixed gun and I am replacing it with
some brass tubing. Oh and what do people think about telescoping landing gear?
Cool or dumb? I'm thinking something to take the shock of landing.
Thanks, Bill
PERRYG1@aol.com on 09/24/99 08:39:38 PM
Please respond to gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
To: gzg-l@CSUA.Berkeley.EDU
cc: (bcc: Bill Brush/InfSys/Revenue)
Subject: Re: Resin vehicles - customizing
In a message dated 99-09-23 11:20:27 EDT, you write:
<<
Anyway, a friend of mine gave me one of the Super-heavy dropships from
the
micro-tac range, and I've got this uncontrollable urge to make it
"functional". To this end I have cut open the rear loading section and hinged
the drop door, and I've cut open the hollow upper part of the hull to allow
access from the rear. The tricky part is going to be hollowing the base
suffiently.
:-)
> [quoted text omitted]
I have the same kit (it's been waiting for me to get to it for a few years).
I'm currious as to what paint scheme you used on yours?
Thanks,
Perry
Bill,
If this thing is very heavy telescoping landing gear will have to be huge. The
main gear struts on our Dolphin are about 5 inches in dia and that is
just to absorb a 600 ft/min drop of a 9000 lb helo. To get any useful
absorption you really have to beef those things up.
Bob Makowsky
[quoted original message omitted]