A little help, I picked up some QRF not marines and not aliens at Cold Wars,
now it is time to paint. I tend to spray prime in the base color, probably
khaki for the marines, but I'm open to suggestions for the bugs. I want to see
the details, but paint them fast. BTW I can dry brush, I just don't as a rule.
I also use the 3 foot rule in painting, if I can't see it at 3
feet, I really don't need to paint it :-).
Thanks
Mike
Try using the colors Mother Nature uses to show other creatures that an insect
should not be messed with... yellows, reds, oranges, blacks, etc. You might
also want to try a particular scheme of any one particular insect.. I.e. the
black widow.
Does this help? Warren
[quoted original message omitted]
> A little help, I picked up some QRF not marines and not aliens at Cold
The absolute quickest way, or so I'm told, is what's being called the
"Dip"
method.
Paint the base colors, and then paint them with "Minwax Polyshades Satin
Tudor" stain.
There's a before/after picture at:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~beattie/minwax/minwax.jpeg
I've taken to doing something similar with line troops, but I use a mixture of
water, brown ink, and Future acrylic floor wax. Works well, and it's a lot
less trouble than using a stain.
> I've taken to doing something similar with line troops, but I use a
> lot less trouble than using a stain.
Futura (though I assume any acrylic wax will do) is the 'secret' of Magic
Wash, right?
The_Beast
> >I've taken to doing something similar with line troops, but I use a
That's the stuff. I use a mixture of about 3 parts water to 2 parts Future,
mixed with the appropriate amount of ink. The only pre-made washed that
I have right now are black and brown, and I mix others as needed.
Fantastic stuff. I've had really great results by makig a magic wash out of
Vallejo's "Smoke" ink; instant weathering.
Ok, so if someone wouldn't mind enlighting me... what is "Magic Wash" (yes, I
saw the ingredients listed below) and why is it magic?
J
John K. Lerchey Computer and Network Security Coordinator Computing Services
Carnegie Mellon University
> On Thu, 13 May 2004, John C wrote:
> > >I've taken to doing something similar with line troops, but I use a
> Ok, so if someone wouldn't mind enlighting me... what is "Magic Wash"
While magic wash is fairly famous, it's been sold as Magic Wash, usually
without ink or color added yet, on eBay, as well as other places.
I'm not a painter, but plenty of folks swear by it. It can be (is usually?)
used with paint, or so I've heard, so John may be adding to my limited
knowledge on the subject.
Inks and regular washes can require multiple steps, I gather, but the acrylic
floor polish is reputed to make it magically simple.
Do I need to add YMMV?
The_Beast
Don't know why it's called "Magic Wash" other than it's relatively easy to
make and use, provides good results and is very cheap.
The main ingredient is "Future Floor Wax" which is a misnomer since it's an
acrylic based floor "wax". I've seen recipies that vary from full
strength Future down to stuff that is 1/4 strength (1 part future to
three parts water) plus whatever color you wish to stain with. Usually you
only need about 1 drop of color per ounce of Magic wash. YMMV and you can
always add more to taste (sight?).
The more Future you use, the "stickier" the wash is, that is the more it
clings to cracks and crevices and even raised areas. Too watery a wash will
tend to drip out of the cracks.
The advantage of the this method is that you can choose the exact shade
or tint of your wash - anything from straight black, to shades of brown,
or even dark green, blue, or red.
In practice you would use them as you would inks - for enhancing
shadows. But they have the added appeal that they put down a slight layer of
protection (the acrylic coat). This usually leaves a
semi-gloss look that some people dislike, but most people will dull-coat
their figures anyway.
Cost of Future Floor Wax is about $7.00 per quart.
The Minwax method is similar but you are limited in shades (usually dark or
medium browns) and to get the best effect you need to thin the stain slightly
to reduce the clinginess to raised areas. It is also requires the use of paint
thinner to clean your brushes. Future is water based and is easily cleaned up
with water.
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/mlb&pgmarket=en-us/go/onm00200439ave/
direct/01/
> [quoted text omitted]
> On Thu, 13 May 2004, John K Lerchey wrote:
> Ok, so if someone wouldn't mind enlighting me... what is "Magic Wash"
The Futura in the wash does two things: 1) seals your figure in a protective
coating; 2) changes the surface tension in the wash, causing the pigment to
better settle into recesses, folds, along belts, etc. and
doesn't leave splotches / ragged edges like a plain water-diluted wash
tends to do. Supposedly a small amount of dish soap also accomplishes
#2.
Cheers,
> While magic wash is fairly famous, it's been sold as Magic Wash,
The "Magic Wash" is good for instant shading. You get relatively little
pigment on the raised surfaces, as it settles into the crevices and such.
These days I don't use paint washes; inks and stains only for me. Better color
at the kind of consistency that you want a wash to have. Reaper and
Vallejo have some nice colors, and -- while I hate their paint bottles
with
a passion -- I absolutely love Games Workshop's premixed "Flesh Wash".
And, in fact, I'm still using some of the *old* GW inks that I purchased a
good 10 years ago now. Good value in those days, but not much now.
> John C wrote:
> These days I don't use paint washes; inks and stains only for me.
> Reaper and Vallejo have some nice colors, and -- while I hate their
> those days, but not much now.
You really want to spring for proper acrylic inks. Any art supply shop should
have an excellent selection of colors. You get Really Good color
in a well-made ink. The bottles are designed for people who do this for
a living, not by packaging design "experts". Best of all, the prices usually
work out to a lot less then game companies sell them for. Now, artists
acrylics can get very expensive even compared to the most expensive gaming
paints. But Games Workshop won't sell me a Cadmium Yellow with actual Cadmium
in it.
> On Thu, May 13, 2004 at 11:01:05AM -0600, B Lin wrote:
> Usually you only need about 1 drop of color per ounce of Magic wash.
YMMV and you can always add more to taste (sight?).
I have nothing to contribute to the thread, but I'd just like to point out:
http://www.inktank.com/SWO/index.cfm?nav=7
On Thu, 13 May 2004 21:08:47 -0700 Michael Llaneza
> <maserati@earthlink.net> wrote:
> [...] Games Workshop won't sell me a Cadmium Yellow with actual
I'm probably going to regret this, but I _have_ to ask... why would you
want actual Cd in a paint? Does it give a specific shade unobtainable by other
means?
Suddenly curious,
Phil
----
This.sig file provided by British Railtrack ISP PLC. Currently out of order
due to the wrong kind of bits on the net.
> Phillip Atcliffe wrote:
> I'm probably going to regret this, but I _have_ to ask... why would you
> want actual Cd in a paint? Does it give a specific shade unobtainable
If I've inspired curiosity I've had a good day. I've found that a lot of
yellow gaming paint has lousy coverage. A Cd yellow is a rich color and
covers well - without being thick. I usually paint over black primer, so
good coverage in yellow is very important to me.
> In message <BAY10-F69N02iS4Pg9Q0000dac4@hotmail.com>, "John C" writes:
Ladies and Gentlem, QRF Marines and others painted in the Dip:
http://www.littleleadheroes.com/archives/000182.html#000182
http://www.littleleadheroes.com/gallery/scifi
The Alients were sprayed black and drybrushed grey. All the others, including
the Skullhunters and Facehuggers, were dipped. Search
http://www.littleleadheroes.com/ for more Dip info and pics.
Thanks!!!
Mike
[quoted original message omitted]
> You really want to spring for proper acrylic inks. Any art supply shop
For my "big" washes, I use artists inks -- India Ink and Burnt Sienna,
both from Pelikan. Being married to an artist has the occasional advantage,
y'know.
I've had no problems with using the hobby products, though. Vallejo's stuff is
fantastic, the Reaper colors (Wood Wash and FLesh Wash) are both quite nice,
despite their glossy finish, and that GW Flesh Wash is such a unique color
that I would have no idea how to duplicate it with artist's inks.
Besides, I spent maybe $9.00 for those nine bottles of GW ink 15 years ago
now. The minute they run out, I'll replace 'em with something better. Until
then, though....
(Ah, for the days when GW was a good way to get INexpensive stuff.)