painting - sponging (was: Re: [OT] a clarification of my comments to David (of DLD fame))

Responding to my own post with a quick note.:)

> Indy wrote:
<laserlight@quixnet.net>
> > wrote:

I think the best description as to how much paint there should be on the
sponge is "damp". And even that might be too much, depending on what
lookr or effect you are trying to achieve. I guess...experiment!  :-)

> On Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:44:14 -0400, Indy <kochte@stsci.edu> wrote:

> I think the best description as to how much paint there should be on

Sounds very interesting. I'll give it a go. Did you try multicolour dabbing,
or did you just use a monotone? I have some 25mm SG2 vehicles that are taking
forever to paint by hand. This sounds like I'd get a cool cammo pattern
_and_
it wouldn't take long.

> Allan Goodall wrote:

Monotone. Haven't been brave enough to try multi, or even duo.  ;-)

Stuart whipped out an Ashkelon for me last year, to give me a *real* quick
demo of how easy it is to sponge. I will try and get a photo of
it taken RSN and posted (minding that I'm digitally-challenged and only
own a 35mm camera that uses the archaic stuff called "film"  ;-).  I'll
try to use this as motivation to paint some of my stuff up for a bad
comparison (here's a master, here's someone not even an apprentice ;-)

> I have some 25mm SG2 vehicles that are taking

Stuart, The Master, could crank out 3 15mm vehicles in the time it takes
the paint to dry (or 15 minutes, whichever comes first ;-). You should
be able to get some stuff out quicker this way (I've primed a few matchbox
military vehicles to do more practicing with before I re-attack my
Hanits, Ashkelons, Civets, and Kamodo minis).

From: Allan Goodall agoodall@att.net
> On Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:44:14 -0400, Indy <kochte@stsci.edu> wrote:

> I think the best description as to how much paint there should be on

> Sounds very interesting. I'll give it a go. Did you try multicolour

Stuart did green, brown, black --apparently he had a US or German
pattern in mind but I don't know what it was--and took it from from
primer to usable in 5 minutes.

I also did this with some 15mm NSL panzergrens, wouldn't use it on all my figs
but it gave a good effect

On 11-Apr-02 at 17:16, laserlight@quixnet.net (laserlight@quixnet.net)
wrote:

> Stuart did green, brown, black --apparently he had a US or German

I would be afraid I would achieve that marble affect I have been trying so
hard to achieve in other places. I really don't want a marble looking tank.

For those who don't know, this sounds exactly like the technique used for
making faux marble by Martha Stewart types. I've been trying to use it for D&D
terrain and failing miserably.

> Roger Books wrote:
wrote:
> > Stuart did green, brown, black --apparently he had a US or German

Wal-Mart I noticed last week has a line of GI Joe "matchbox"-like
cars for cheap ($0.89 or something like that). Get some of those, prime 'em,
and practice? It's what I'm doing right now. Work out the
kinks of this technique (and find the right color combos ;-) before
I take on my *real* stuff.  :-)

I really promise to take pics and post as soon as I'm able to. You guys can
then all shake your collective heads at my awesomely sad
paintsmanship. ;-)

On Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:04:05 -0400, Indy <kochte@stsci.edu> wrote :

> Roger Books wrote:
wrote:
> >

Truly -- I keep a bunch of really awful old figures around, so I can
practice new and different tecniques on them without the fear of "ruining" a
miniature that I really like.

Pine-Sol cures all wounds, but even so -- I've got some Reaper figures
that I'm almost afraid to paint, because they look So Damn Good just as bare
metal.

> From: "John Crimmins" <johncrim@voicenet.com>

> but even so -- I've got some Reaper figures that I'm

I know what you mean - I have their Hedgehog APC's for CAV.

3B^2

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