From: Adrian Bruce <adrian@i...>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 02:16:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Painting resin
In article <199707180510.HAA08308@lin01.global.co.za> > pvandyk@global.co.za writes: > nuqneH, Something else I can contribute on! > 1. What can one use to glue resin to resin / white metal to resin? SuperGlue or 5minute epoxy ( Araldite or what ever. The stuff comes in 2 small tubes you have to mix). epoxy is stronger. > 2. How can one clean the resin parts (also remove the 'flash')? Remove flash with the back of edge of an Exacto knife. For thick pouring gates you need to use a razor saw and clean up with files. > 3. Paints - what are the recommendations ito type etc? Before painting you should very lightly scrub ( so you don't scratch or remove details!)the parts with an old toothbrush and a cleaner like 'JIF'. It will remove the release agent *if any was used*. Paint doesn't stick to release agent. White Metal parts should really be 'polished', so the oxidation doesn't lift the paint later... Use a Gray Primer for Car to prime the surface. NOTHING shows up faults like a coat of gray primer! Fill any bubbles with putty. Tiny holes can be filled with Tamiya putty thinned with Laquer thinner ( you use the same stuff to thin sculpey too), so it can be 'painted in' the bubbles. I always use Wet and Dry used wet for cleaning this stuff up. If you want to paint light colors, I would then spray a white undercoat of your prefered flavour ( acrylic, enamel or laquer) over the gray primer. Then paint the thing with the same flavour ( acrylic, enamel or laquer)! I personally use either Tamiya acrylics or Liquidex (sp?) artist acrylics. Then overcoat it with a Gunze Flat Clear, but this might not exist outside Japan. > 4. Anything else I should bear in mind? Don't paint enamel over acrylic, or laquer over enamal or acrylic, but acryclic over enamel or laquer is OK! Test what ever clear you use too see if it destroys the paint you have used. Oh, and have fun! > Qapla' - Pierre