Someone suggested putting marbles/ball bearings into paint.
Questions:
1) Paint tends to settle in large clots in the bottom of the glass jar. How
much use is a marble frozen into this guck? (My point is you require a fairly
viscous situation even to gain the benefits)
2) Is there a risk of reaction with the paint from either type of foreign
object?
3) Does the inestimatble Mr.Bell realize how he made me smile? The image of
him putting some sort of paddle into his paint on the tip of a 5000 rpm Dremel
(low setting for most of them) was rather hilarious... and would probably be
very messy, unless he was lucky enough to own one of the older 295's with a
foot pedal.
I will try some marbles or small ball bearings, but I guess one want stainless
ballbearings?
Tomb
PS - anyone have an idea where I can get good (as in normal size but
with a great lid) EMPTY paint jars? I love the Armory paint jars I got from
some of their discontinued lines, but I need some more containers
to store mixed paints/washes/etc.
PPS - Allan talking about crashing a VTOL onto the guy who shot it down
ought to be familiar to the Kra'Vak from Grey Day To Die.... several Kra'Vak
Aerospace fighters went down and at least one went down right on top of
another unit....
[quoted original message omitted]
> On 5/1/02 9:26 AM, "Tomb" <tomb@dreammechanics.com> wrote:
> 2) Is there a risk of reaction with the paint from either type of
That's why the ball must be glass, or a grade of stainless steel that does not
react with water.
NOTE: the bearings that they sell at hardware stores are not this variety, and
though it takes a while, it will eventually begin to rust and spoil the paint.
On Wed, 1 May 2002 12:26:01 -0400, "Tomb" <tomb@dreammechanics.com>
wrote:
> 3) Does the inestimatble Mr. Bell realize how he made me smile? The
You laugh, but my late father left behind something in his tool box. It was a
barbecue rotisserie attachment. Apparently he used to put this on one of his
power drills for stirring cans of paint. I always wondered why I've never seen
this in a Home Depot, as it seems to me that it would make a cool tool.
And my Dremel goes much lower than 5000 RPM. Mind you, not so much that I'd
actually think of using it to stir paint!
I would suggest glass marbles or perhaps beads. I don't know if the metal
would react to some of the metallic paints or not. In any event we know that
paint doesn't react to glass.
I actually have a paint mixer for large paint cans, it has two perpendicular
blades at the bottom of an 18" rod. It's great for large cans because it goes
right to the bottom and stirs it up. The problem is coming back up. If you
want mix the top half after immersing the rod to the bottom, you have to draw
up very slowly or the paint adhering to the rod flys in all directions. If
you're not careful and accidentally
allow the blades to surface - can you say Pollock...
Clean up is easy, after tapping it a couple of times to get most of the paint
back into the can, a quick imemrsion in a bucket of water cleans it off well.
For mixing my paints I went and bought a used vortexer from a scientific
supply house. They normally retail new for over $100 but I got mine for $25.
It's basically a rapidly shaking platform. I use duct tape to strap my bottles
on (after double checking the lids) to the platform and let them shake for ten
minutes. It has a variable speed from about 1 hertz to about 20 hertz.
Definitely easier than using arm power. I probably should make a more
permanent attachment device but duct tape is cheap.
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
> I would suggest glass marbles or perhaps beads. I don't know if the
Reaper puts a small pewter skull marker in each of its bottles. They cast them
on site as agitators, but not the kind anyone will need chemical or
biological agents to flush out :-)
Where on their site are they listed? I'd like to take a peek at them.
3B^2
> From: "Kevin Balentine" <kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net>
I don't have a direct link to the paint page, but if you go to
http://www.reapermini.com/, click on the logo and it will take you to a
page of product listings. One of the links is for ProPaints.
I can't speak for the quality of their paints, but I can speak for the quality
of the people at Reaper. They are great guys and very helpful. The bikini
girls (if you saw the article on Theminiaturespage.com) must be new however,
because they weren't there when I took a tour of their facility back in
January... guess it would have been a little cold for bikinis then
:-)
Kevin
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Brian Bilderback" <bbilderback@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: gzg-l@csua.berkeley.edu
Date: Wed, 01 May 2002 14:12:17 -0700
> Where on their site are they listed? I'd like to take a peek at them.
> From: "Kevin Balentine" <kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net>
> I don't have a direct link to the paint page, but if you go to
> page
Been there, can only find the paints, no reference to the agitators.
> I can't speak for the quality of their paints, but I can speak for the
Agreed. Bought some CAV figs for use in DSII, really was pleased with them.
From: "Brian Bilderback" <bbilderback@hotmail.com>
> From: "Kevin Balentine" <kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net>
Oh, sorry, I misunderstood what you were looking for. I don't think they sell
or advertise the agitators as a separate product... but if you ask they
might be able to help you out or hook you up.
> From: "Kevin Balentine" <kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net>
> Oh, sorry, I misunderstood what you were looking for. I don't think
Oh, ok. Thanks. I was thinking they'd make great markers for
wounded/killed men/vehicles.
3B^2
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Brian Bilderback" <bbilderback@hotmail.com>
> From: "Kevin Balentine" <kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net>
I totally agree. I'm trying to work up my courage to propose a mass fantasy
battle game system to them in hopes of saving their endangered 15mm Shadow
Corps line of minis. If I am successful, I would certainly incorporate the
markers as "carnage counters."
> From: "Kevin Balentine" <kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net>
> I totally agree. I'm trying to work up my courage to propose a mass
I'll have to give the SC figs a look.
3B^2
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Brian Bilderback" <bbilderback@hotmail.com>
> From: "Kevin Balentine" <kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net>
Fair warning: They are very big, closer probably to 18mm. But the orcs look
suitably impressive as Black Orcs next to smaller figures from Demonworld and
other manufacturers.
On Wed, 1 May 2002 16:37:46 -0500, "Kevin Balentine"
<kevinbalentine@mail.ev1.net> wrote:
> From: "Brian Bilderback" <bbilderback@hotmail.com>
If you want little skulls, Fortress Figures makes some nice plastic ones:
https://secure.bpsinet.com/fortress/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?keywords=
KA001
70 rather nice neadbones for $10.00, along with a femur or three. Some of the
skulls are
non-human, though...at least one skull on each sprue belonged to an Orc.
For more weight, just glue each skull to a penny or a washer, and there you
go.
G'day,
> Fair warning: They are very big, closer probably to 18mm. But
And they're dwarves are very cool... OK I use them as 25mm gnomes, but that's
another story.... though one that has inspired me to look into 54mm and 15mm
(or 10mm) as alien forces for SG;)
> The
Some third party at one time sold paint stirrers for Dremels. I own one and
have used it. Looks pretty much like a nail, and you stick the wide "nail
head" end into the paint. No blades or paddles - just the rotation does
the trick.
It worked fine for me, but I found using ball bearings and shaking by hand to
be more efficient.