To any scratchbuilders out there.... any suggestions of how to (even remotely)
simulate (in 25mm) a disintegrating link ammo belt? I've got an HMG stand or
two (House Kurita HMG with crew) for which ammo boxes are supplied, but it
doesn't seen they are meant to attach to the side of the MG (besides, the MG
is too fragile to have such a big box installed high up the side....). So I
want to simulate (somehow) a link belt (heck, even something flexible I can
paint to look like a sealed flexible feeder from the
box/cassette to the weapon would do).
Ideas?
Also seeking suggestion on tree basing. Right now, I'm using circles of
cardboard about 3" across painted green, but they are kind of thick and
_not_ bottom weighted. I'm mounting 6" pine trees. I'd ideally like to
get something with a bit of weight (lead?) that is about the same dimension
that I could then prime and flock easily... any idea if anyone makes such a
beast?
> To any scratchbuilders out there.... any suggestions of how to (even
For the flexible feeder: take some 2-part epoxy putty (green stuff)
and make a long rectangular shape however you want the feeder to go. Using a
blade or dental tool, make regular grooves on both sides.
Take care not to press too hard and either cut through and/or remove
the grooves from the other side. If possible match them up. Let it
set for a bit - more to give your eyes and hands a break, and then
repeat to front and back. Making the grooves may cause some bulges here and
there, but don't worry about it. When completely set, carefully sand back to
shape. It's even better if you don't need detail on one side! Keep in mind
that this piece will be quite fragile as you work with it: BE CAREFUL! There's
nothing more frustrating that breaking a piece that you've spent hours getting
just right.
There may be an easier way, but this will work.
> Also seeking suggestion on tree basing.
How about either plywood or thick styrene sheet. The weigh much more, can be
sanded, painted, and are even more durable.
> At 04:51 PM 1/30/01 -0500, you wrote:
Cut a good number of short lengths of wire -- paperclip wire might work
and then stick them to a thin stip of masking tape. I'd then paint this with
some thinned white glue to make it more durable. I don't know if this would
work, but that's what I'd try.
> Also seeking suggestion on tree basing. Right now, I'm using circles of
AOL CDs? I have a good number that I'm saving for just that purpose. Add some
small rocks or disguised hex nuts for weight?
How about getting some aluminum screen (the kind you use on screen doors and
the like). Cut along one edge (so that you have the ends sticking out). Then
bend to rough shape and cover with PVC glue (or super glue) to keep the strip
from unraveling since the next step is...
...going in and cutting parallel to the frst cut but two rows in. This should
result in two (or three) rows (the links) with many short perpendicular pieces
(the bullets). You would have to use a very fine mesh, though. Never tried
this, but it sounds like it could work.
Rob
[quoted original message omitted]
On Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:51:29 -0500, "Barclay, Tom" <tomb@bitheads.com>
wrote:
> Also seeking suggestion on tree basing. Right now, I'm using circles of
Ooo! Ooo! Fender washers.
You can pick them up in any hardware store. I use them to mount figures, as
well. They are just flat steel disks with a hole in the middle. They come in
different diameters and with different hole diameters.
For figures, I use 1" diameter washers with the smallest inside hole I can
find. However, I do have a couple of massive washers 3" wide. I use the
largest ones for mounting a Dark Young of Shub Niggurath figure (a Call of
Cthulhu critter). I use 1 1/2" to 2" diameter (not sure which, off hand)
to mount my trees. They work great. Prime them, spray some flat green paint on
them, glue the trees onto them, then flock. Works great.
I buy them by the box, at about C$8 per box of 100 at Home Depot.
On Tue, 30 Jan 2001 21:41:10 -0800, "Laserlight"
<laserlight@quixnet.net> wrote:
> Or they're *zinc* discs, etc. Price and weight difference.
The ones I have are "plated steel".
I use 3/4" diameter washers for 15mm SG2 figures. They are definitely
steel, as they stick to magnets. I use 1" diameter washers for 25mm figures.
Are the zinc washers cheaper or more expensive? Are they heavier? (I'd imagine
they are probably lighter, but not positive...).
In a message dated 1/30/01 3:52:21 PM Central Standard Time,
> tomb@bitheads.com writes:
> Also seeking suggestion on tree basing. Right now, I'm using circles
Try cutting bases for MULTIPLE trees in random shapes with two or three trees
on each bases. You can define the tree area as everything enclosed by the
outer dimensions of the tree bases. That wasy you can move the multiple trees
around in side the areas without always knocking them over as you move units
around, just twist the base or fudge it over an inch or two. The total
dimension of the forest hasn';t changed at all, and there are not toppled
trees littering the table.
In a message dated 1/30/01 3:52:21 PM Central Standard Time,
> tomb@bitheads.com writes:
> any suggestions of how to (even
I just had a thought. Haven't tried it but it should work. Cut a thin strip
from each edge of a flexible tank tread from your model scrap box. SHould work
fine with a touch of paint.
> >Also seeking suggestion on tree basing. Right now, I'm using
snip
> Ooo! Ooo! Fender washers.
> >Or they're *zinc* discs, etc. Price and weight difference.
Allan Goodall awg@sympatico.ca
> The ones I have are "plated steel".
(I'd imagine
> they are probably lighter, but not positive...).
I think zinc are cheaper and lighter but I could be wrong--ideally
> "Barclay, Tom" wrote:
Err... how about ribbon cable? Might be a bit over scale for HMG ammo', mind.
> From: Allan Goodall <awg@sympatico.ca>
> Ooo! Ooo! Fender washers.
If you shop at Home Depot you may also be interested in "Power Fasteners".
They're located near the nailguns I believe. They are 1" slugs... just like
Fender washers only no hole. I use them to mount a lot of my figs.
Pete
On Tue, 30 Jan 2001 22:51:12 -0800 "Laserlight" <laserlight@quixnet.net>
writes: <snip>
> I think zinc are cheaper and lighter but I could be wrong--ideally
Well, steel might not be lighter then steal but definitely cheaper. I *love*
spell checkers most of the time...
Aside from that, I got a group of discs from a site where an associate
(electrical job) had a bunch of those pop-out discs from installing some
kind of electrical connections boxes (Sorry, I don't know the word - I
recognize hammers two out of three times, 'wires are "live" at all times', and
that plumbing is an alien plot to destroy human civilization...)
How about corduroy?
Cut very thin strip across the ribs. Soak in white glue/water mixture.
Bend into shape and let dry. Prime heavily (to fill fibre holes). Paint and
attach.
Have not tried it, but it seems like it would be easy.
After having some of my cruisers fall over on the new (plastic) stands, I am
now going to mount the stands for cruisers on fender washers. I had
originally purchesed them to weight my 1-2" trees.
-----
Brian Bell bkb@beol.net
-----
> -----Original Message-----
> Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 16:51:29 -0500
[snip]
> Also seeking suggestion on tree basing. Right now, I'm using circles
Hi Tom,
for tree bases, i use fender washers -- the ones with the very small
hole.
they provide a good weight to prevent tree-topppling and work well with
magnetic-bottom boxes for storage/transport. fender washers cost about
$.03 - $.05 each.
For tree bases I use 3 pennies. Cost $0.03 US.
Michael Brown
[quoted original message omitted]
The zinc washers are most certainly zinc plated washers. These are also known
as galvanized. Heavier and more expensive than steel washers, since they are
steel washers with a zinc coating to prevent rusting. Cheaper than stainless
steel though, although not worth the extra cost for use with miniatures, as
they should never rust.
IMO, the only advantage of steel washers is that they have iron in them and
are therefore magnetic. This is nice for transporting. Other than that,
pennies are cheaper (rather ironic, eh?).
Another nice way to make bases for trees is to use Sculpey. It is a cheap
cookable modelling clay (like Fimo, but way cheaper.) The big advantage is
that it can be shaped into form, ground, sanded, etc. It is rather light, but
you can always glue small stones to it (or work them into the Sculpey) to add
weight and effect. I got a 1 lb block for CAN$14. It is also good for making
other things like craters (my friend Martin made loads
one night to indicate artillery beaten zones - very cool)
> On Tue, 30 Jan 2001 21:41:10 -0800, "Laserlight"
<laserlight@quixnet.net>
> wrote:
***
IMO, the only advantage of steel washers is that they have iron in them and
are therefore magnetic. This is nice for transporting. Other than that,
pennies are cheaper (rather ironic, eh?).
***
Well, there is a nice variety in diameter on the washers, they ARE smooth
which can be a help if you're mounting something flat on the bottom, and some
are very thin if you're trying to keep something from looking like it's on a
platform.
That said, the holes in the center can be a problem if you're sculpting
with something that'll push/dribble through.
***
Another nice way to make bases for trees is to use Sculpey. It is a cheap
cookable modelling clay (like Fimo, but way cheaper.)
***
Strangely enough, I see Fimo fairly often in thrift stores mighty cheap; I've
never figured out why. I know most kids LOVE it.
I've never seen Sculpey, even in local art stores. I know many pro fig
sculptors swear by it. Is price the only consideration?
I've done a bit of cut-and-paste ship fig building with styrene; I'm
thinking of trying a little sculpting, and haven't done real well with either
green stuff or Fimo. I suppose talent and patience would help.
The_Beast
-Douglas J. Evans, curmudgeon
One World, one Web, one Program - Microsoft promotional ad
The local bead store might be an stop worth looking into. Browse all their
beads, as you can find all sorts of beads to do all sorts of things, not
just that specific thing.
And as for mounting trees, I will say that washers are very useful for
mounting all sorts of things. I mount my scratchbuilt and commercial starships
on them, and my brother mounts his stargrunt figs on smaller washers. Pennies
also fill the same role.
To get cheap trees buy "bumpy chenile", cut it into tree sections, mount of
pennies, spray with a glue and dip into the green stuff that railroaders
use, sorry minds gone blank on this one, and then shake off. Chenile is just a
fancy name for pipe cleaners, so your trees may need regluing once and a while
but will travel well and be nearly indestructable.
> ***
Good point. It is nice to have a variety of diameters.
> I've done a bit of cut-and-paste ship fig building with styrene; I'm
And tools! Having a half decent set of tools is crucial. Especially ones that
allow you to keep your fingers off the soft material. I think that talent is
less important than practice. YMMV.
> The_Beast
While on the topic of mounting things on washers... I built a bunch of FT
bogeys for my game using 1" dia wooden disks and 1" metal slugs. What is the
best glue to use with wood and metal? I've been using a CVA glue and it's not
working out so well...
Pete
> From: Corey Burger <burgundavia@crosswinds.net>
> On Thu, 01 February 2001, "Peter C" wrote:
> While on the topic of mounting things on washers... I built a bunch of
I've been experimenting with wooden disks on metal fender washers for making
fighter stands. Dean G. gave me the idea, though I have modified his idea a
little (using small tacks instead of earring stems, snipped short, because
they are cheaper).
The glue I use is Goop. Goop is messy and, well, goopy. It's very thick.
However, it's the only glue that holds soft plastic pieces (such as that used
to make HO scale Revell, Airfix, ESCI, Matchbox, etc. figures). It does a very
good job of gluing wood to metal. You can also sculpt it, a little, around the
edge like caulking, but you have to do it quickly.
Not everyone likes Goop as it is pretty thick, but what it does it does very
well.
Say it with me now:
5 minute epoxy
This stuff is almost indestructible and dries in about 20 minutes, despite the
name
Or if you have the time and the patience, white glue works well, better for
wood/wood but is functional for wood/metal.
Devcon makes 5 minute epoxy, also a 2 minute version, superglue gels etc, and
you should be able to pick them up at any hardware center. I wouldn't
use them for some plastics (nylon, urethanes/polyester/polyether or
polyethylenes) but they should handle most of the other materials you're
likely to try. I suspect that "resin" models are a urethane with a filler
(fiberglas?), don't know how that would work. Styrenes should be okay.
If you're determined to try to glue some of the less cooperatve plastics,
you can try Devcon Plastic Welder 2--score/roughen the surfaces first
and try not to stress the joint. I've gotten Krylon primer to stick to
polyethylene, so you might prime it before you try to glue it. You'll probably
be better off to pin it together first, though.
[quoted original message omitted]
> On Thu, 01 February 2001, "Peter C" wrote:
Like Allan says, I also use 1" wooden disks and fender washers for my fighter
bases. Instead of Goop, I use 'E6000', a glue found in most craft
stores and in the craft area of Wal-Mart. I raided it from my wife's
craft supplies since it is commonly used in crafting for jewelry where you
have to attach a stone to fabric or metal. Its also goopy, similar to rubber
cement but dries much stronger and attaches pretty much anything to anything.
It stays somewhat flexable when dried and works best when you have a decent
amount of contact area.
In a message dated 2/1/01 10:54:01 AM Central Standard Time,
> burgundavia@crosswinds.net writes:
> Or if you have the time and the patience, white glue works well,
It also has the advantage that it is NOT permanent on metal to porous
material. I find very useful for basing figures on multi figure card stands.
If I ever need to re-base, I can just pop the figures off without
destroying their legs. For metal to metal I tend to use super glue for basing,
because it holds very well until you apply shear force then the figure comes
off the washer without destroying the figure.
White wood glue (PVA), sprinkled with sand is good. The sand adds a surprising
amount of weight to any base:)
Liquid Nails (for Small Projects) works well also.
Rob
[quoted original message omitted]