***
One of the reasons we've switched some of our larger models to resin -
weighs next to nothing compared to the metal versions (and the castings are
better too!)
***
Do you really find that much difference in weight, Tony?
A really big item like the NSL SDN, which is cast in semi-hollow pieces
in metal would tend to be cast in solid in resin. For a fairly flat item,
which would tend to be moulded solid anyway, yes, I can see it could be
impressive.
Casting are better too...
Hmm, don't know enough to comment.
The_Beast
Yep, the difference in weight is very significant - our metal Pommerania
SDN was also hollow, but still weighed a great deal. The resin version
(with a few metal parts) weighs an awful lot less - maybe a quarter of
the weight in a polyurethane resin. It also now has fewer parts (resin hull
plus 5 metal pieces as opposed to metal hull with 8 pieces) because
the hull can be cast in one solid piece. One problem that this has thrown up
is that the CoG of the model has changed so the location of the mounting hole
isn't right anymore (the metal parts are all at the back so it has a tendency
to overbalance backwards). Casting quality is better because our current (soon
to be replaced) kit doesn't cope well with large, heavy castings. We've done
the same with with several other models (Chinese DN has gone from 8 metal
parts to one resin plus 3 metal, EuroFed BB from 6 metal to one resin plus 3
metal and so on). Switching our 15mm models from metal to resin was the
biggest gain, the casting quality is much improved and the masters are so much
easier to
make since I no longer have to worry about making multi-part masters
that fit together neatly with hidden joins, etc. The resin is also slightly
cheaper so we've been able to hold off increasing their prices as we have had
to with some of the metal models. The only downside is that the moulds have a
shorter life, although since our sales aren't up
with the full-time guys this hasn't been a major issue.
> Doug Evans wrote:
> ***
***
...Switching our 15mm models from metal to resin was the biggest gain, the
casting quality is much improved and the masters are so much easier to
make since I no longer have to worry about making multi-part masters
that fit together neatly with hidden joins, etc....
***
Ok, but I've heard for YEARS how metal casts details better, unless you want
to do injection, *he he*, and that'll be tough to get out of my head.
However, you haven't mentioned one problem admittedly more prevelant here
in the colonies than there in near-northern Europe: hot car syndrome!
The_Beast
> Doug Evans wrote:
I can't speak for Brigade's line of starships that have been moved into resin,
but I can speak for a couple of their 15mm vehicle
From: "Doug Evans" <devans@nebraska.edu>
> However, you haven't mentioned one problem admittedly more prevelant
I have quite a few interestingly deformed bits of kit due to this. Many
irreplaceable.
In summer in Australia, it's not unknown for the inside of cars to reach
temperatures of 70C (160F) within an hour. At least, I once had a plastic
thermometer that I left inside the car, and that was the temperature it read
when it melted.
Leaving dogs, toddlers etc in cars in the car park in summer, even for 10
minutes, has led to all too many tragedies. :-(
There's a new market - 'Brigade Models' branded refrigerated storage
boxes :-)
Seriously, keeping them out of direct sunlight would be a good move -
when I was a kid I had some Lego I left on the back seat of a car which was
deformed, so it's not just our stuff that's vulnerable. The boot (sorry,
'trunk') would be stuffy but your models won't mind (spaceships
have aircon after all :-) ). Models will warp in sunlight because
they'll be heated unevenly - one side is superheated, the other in
shade. Keeping them in the shade would alleviate this to some degree.
You could always put them in a cool box (an Eskie for you, Alan ;-) ) or
one of these cheap in-car fridges powered from the cigarette lighter
which are in massive surplus in the shops over here (especially England
football branded ones!).
Tony
> Alan and Carmel Brain wrote:
> From: "Doug Evans" <devans@nebraska.edu>
That's
> what happened to my gear. UV also causes some clear plastic to get very
> what happened to my gear. UV also causes some clear plastic to get very
Not just clear--nearly any plastic will degrade from UV. I'd guess that
flight bases are made mostly from styrene, which degrades quite quickly.
> Indy wrote:
> into resin, but I can speak for a couple of their 15mm vehicle
I'm of the mind that the resin ones are actually better - the corners
are sharper in resin, metal castings are always slightly rounded off. The air
pockets are inevitable in resin castings (unless you have the
super-expensive casting kit of outfits like Forge World) but I think
ours are kept to an acceptable minimum.
> However, I do have to say that I am kinda partial to plunking down
I can understand this :-)
Indy:
***
However, I do have to say that I am kinda partial to plunking down
a heavy metal hull on the table before my opponents. ;-)
***
;-> You can still get the same feeling with a really massive resin beast
such as the EE(tm) superheavies. Sure wish I could have gotten a Warzone
Grizzly...
Still, the point is you aren't plopping down something suspended on a thin,
plastic rod.
Alan:
***
Leaving dogs, toddlers etc in cars in the car park in summer, even for 10
minutes, has led to all too many tragedies. :-(
***
And has the public in the US has to be reminded every summer here, too.
=>-;
***
Trouble is, if you just leave your plastic stuff on the back seat, and drive
on a hot summer's day, it can get badly warped just by direct sunlight. That's
what happened to my gear.
***
Makes you wonder if the idea of black plastic gun cases as transports are such
a great idea.
However, concerning Tony's suggestion of fridge units: Oh great, something
else to drain the battery if I'm careless. Natch, that really doesn't hit
until next winter when a worn out battery makes itself known.
Laser:
***
Not just clear--nearly any plastic will degrade from UV. I'd guess that
flight bases are made mostly from styrene, which degrades quite quickly.
***
I defer to your knowledge, but it was my understanding that the dyes in
plastics are as much to retard UV damage as to be pleasing to the eye. Not
that retard means negate by any stretch of the imagination.
Tony:
***
I'm of the mind that the resin ones are actually better - the corners
are sharper in resin, metal castings are always slightly rounded off. The air
pockets are inevitable in resin castings (unless you have the
super-expensive casting kit of outfits like Forge World) but I think
ours are kept to an acceptable minimum.
***
Some people get SOOOOO defensive. ;->=
The_Beast
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2004, Doug Evans wrote:
> Makes you wonder if the idea of black plastic gun cases as transports
On the defense of the gun cases, the gun case may heat unevenly, but the
interior is lined with foam rubber, which will definitely help to disperse the
heat more evenly, which should help to protect the models. If you keep the
guncases out of direct sunlight by putting them in the trunk (boot), that
should help even more.
I'm happy to say that I have never lost a mini to this fate.:)
J
***
On the defense of the gun cases, the gun case may heat unevenly, but the
interior is lined with foam rubber, which will definitely help to disperse the
heat more evenly, which should help to protect the models. If you keep the
guncases out of direct sunlight by putting them in the trunk (boot), that
should help even more.
I'm happy to say that I have never lost a mini to this fate.:)
***
I should have attached a smiley to the comment; I'm not giving up my cases,
even the ones with the EE(tm) eagle on 'em. ;->=
The_Beast
> Doug Evans wrote:
> Tony:
:-)
Just defending the efforts of my resin casting colleague, Phil (I don't cast
the resin, so I feel I can be a bit more immodest when it comes to someone
elses work).
Just as another point of view, while I have not seen any of Brigades 15mm
metal, I do have a few of the 15mm resin kits. I can tell you that they
are as nice as or nicer than any 15mm kits I've looked at in the past.
The casting is clean, and the ones I have have no significant bubbles. And
there are metal detail parts (guns, hatches, etc.) where appropriate. Very
nice stuff.
J
John K. Lerchey Computer and Network Security Coordinator Computing Services
Carnegie Mellon University
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2004, Tony Francis wrote:
> Doug Evans wrote:
> John K Lerchey wrote:
> Just as another point of view, while I have not seen any of Brigades
> the past.
> And there are metal detail parts (guns, hatches, etc.) where
OK, enough, enough, you're embarassing me, I need to get my head through
the door in order to go home tonight. :-[
> Makes you wonder if the idea of black plastic gun cases as transports
The problem with gun cases is that people occasionally think they contain
guns. Customs will want to see inside and is not always gentle with minis. And
depending where you live, leaving a gun case visible in your car is probably
asking for a broken window.
> I defer to your knowledge, but it was my understanding that the dyes in
Not that retard means negate by any stretch of the imagination.
Right. The pigmented will degrade but will last longer than clear.
> In message <4120C6B9.4040802@brigademodels.co.uk>, Tony Francis writes:
What super-expensive casting kit does Forge World have? The most
elaborate resin casting setups I've seen use large pressure pots, but those
aren't really that expensive, much cheaper than a new spin caster. Are they
using spin casters? I've heard of people doing that with resin, but have never
seen a specific example.
Hello Everyone: After reading about all the problems people are having with
the stands here are a couple of suggestions 1) Go to local hardware store and
get a big fender washer, glue to stand. 2) Get some galvanized tin, cut square
(or rectangle) and rond edges. Glue to stand. 3) If you know someone who
reloads shotguns (or can get ahold of some shot pellets) put shot in stand,
pour in resin,tap until settled, top off and let harden. 4) Use two plastic
stands.