In a message dated 2/7/00 12:00:59 AM Central Standard Time,
> kaladorn@home.com writes:
<< NOW the $64 Question: Is there a commonly available solvent or other
substance that will easily loosen cyanoacrylate? I want to remove these
washers as painlessly as possible and using a grinder or some other "overkill"
method seems likely to lead to some form of pewtercide... >>
Commercially available is a solvent for cy-ac glues, it may also be
avilable from hospital supplies (people glue the damndest things together).
And if all
else fails any acetone fingernail polishe remover will probably work -
However try rapping the base sharply on the table while you hold the
figure -
cyano-acrylate glues are terrific to hold things together when they are
pulled apart, but it ain't much good against sheer pressure (pressure
perpendicular to the layer of glue).
Two items:
1) A big thank you to persons forgotten (but list-ites for certain) who
recommended brake fluid to strip unwanted paint from minis. I stripped some
olive green primer (eeeeyecchhh) from some FSE figs to replace it with my
preferred primer using this method and was surprised with the degree of
effectiveness. A big thanks to all who recommended this (way back when this
came up last)!
2) Question: I now have said FSE figs... they are mounted on about 1/4"
diameter, 1/8" thick steel washers with (presumably) cyanoacrylate style
glue. I find this leads to problematic squad spacings (too big) and makes figs
tough to move in the forest. I want to mount them on pennies (oops, don't tell
the gov't... it might be a felony)... as they give a better base size. NOW the
$64 Question: Is there a commonly available solvent or other substance that
will easily loosen cyanoacrylate? I want to remove these washers as painlessly
as possible and using a grinder or some other "overkill" method seems likely
to lead to some form of pewtercide... so I cast my bread upon the waters of
the list and
await some informed answers. Speak ye, list-ites, on what chemical may
solve my problem! <No, Mr.McCarthy, cyanide or sedatives are not acceptable
answers....>
Thanking you all in advance!
Tom B (BTW, you could please mail me offlist at kaladorn@home.com with any
bright suggestions... needless to say any less-than-bright suggestions
can be mailed to /dev/null... *grinning good naturedly*)
The way I understand it, that it is legal to "modify" U.S. currency...So long
as you don't then try to pass it as legal tender... (It ceases to be currency
the moment you modify it. I seen this on one of those "penny manglers" in an
amusement park. Turned out some nice souvenir copper ovals with the park name
on em.)
So base away dude! :-)
I use nail polish remover. strips paint and disolves CA glue.
> Thomas Barclay of the Clan Barclay wrote:
> Two items:
who
> recommended brake fluid to strip unwanted paint from minis. I stripped
For removing cyno-type glues the best thing to use is acetone. You
can buy a can at any of the Home-Depot type stores or any marine
supply.
This is the active ingredient in finger nail polish remover, just at a higher
concentration and with the perfumes removed. Much cheaper.
> At 02:31 AM 2/7/00 -0500, you wrote:
currency...So
> long as you don't then try to pass it as
Turned
> out some nice souvenir copper ovals with the park name on em.)
I use coins as bases for lots of miniatures, either by themselves, or glued
onto a palstic base to add atability. If the gubmint asks, I'll just say
I'[m stashing a few...
I also did a few of my Old Glory 15mm ACW casualty figures on coins, with a
dab of red ink, as an art project. Worked pretty well, and that's waaaaaaaaay
within my First Ammendment rights to use.
go for it
> Donald Hosford
What size coins would be good for (about) 25mm plastic figures. Or would
washers be better?
Donald Hosford
> Michael Llaneza wrote:
> I use coins as bases for lots of miniatures, either by themselves, or
I use 1 Yen pieces. (Aluminum, very nice) Pennies (US) in a pinch
> -----Original Message-----
> At 04:00 PM 2/7/00 -0500, you wrote:
I'd go for washers, that size fig wants quarters, and washers would be
cheaper.
> What size coins would be good for (about) 25mm plastic figures. Or
Most of my 25mm scifi figs are based on 1 inch zinc washers. Zinc because it's
magnetic (so that I can stick sheet magnets in the bottom of my carrying case
and they stick pretty solidly), 1 inch because about 90% of all skirmish games
in that scale use 1 inch bases (Warzone, W40K,
Shockforce, Vor ... (although all of these are closer to 28-30mm
scale)). I found the ones I use at Home Depot, a pack of 100 costs around 8
bucks (IIRC). Look for the ones with the small hole (they have a special name
but I don't recall what it is). They also have an added benefit of being
heavish (in comparison to plastic bases), thereby providing lower center of
gravity to the mini, making it tougher to knock over.
I also use 1 1/2" zinc washers as large bases for particularly
large sci-fi models. (actually I did it to my FT ships as well,
they still aren't 100% stable in their case, but stable enough that I can
drive around without fear of them falling over... just don't shake the case or
swing it around).
I'll go back to lurking, Daryl
> Donald Hosford
In a message dated 2/7/00 3:06:23 PM Central Standard Time,
> Hosford.Donald@ACD.net writes:
<< What size coins would be good for (about) 25mm plastic figures. Or would
washers be better?
Donald Hosford
> Michael Llaneza wrote:
It just boild downtowhat size washer do you require. Is it roughly the size of
a penny? If it is, why not use a penny which costs One Cent as opposed to a
washer which costs Two Cents? Is it as big asa nicklel? Why not use a washer
which costs three cents as opposed to a nickel which costs five cents?
- The only draw back is that pennies are not much use if you store
your figures on a magnetic matt.
In a message dated 2/7/00 3:44:03 PM Central Standard Time,
dlonnon@frii.com writes:
<< Look for the ones with the small hole (they
have a special name but I don't recall what it is). >>
Muffler Washers - though a little putty will fill in the holes on a
standard washer AND add a little bit to the weight. I always stick infnatry
figures down with white glue BECAUSE it's EASY to get them off when you
inevitably
have to re-base. White glue to stick them down, I use "Tacky" Glue from
the craft shop where I buy my acrylic paints in the tole paint department at
as
little as .50/ for four to eight ounce bottles You really can create
just about any color on a pallet if you try. But use one coat of glue to stick
them down and once the miniature is finished another thick coat to flock and
disguise the figure base and I have yet to have one come off of a
well-stored
base. ( I have lost a lot of bases from my old REvell 1/72nd miniatures
which
I use heavily for Napoleonics, ECW and Moderns - though not so badly on
the
multi-figure stands which I put on matting board.
I've used 100% industrial strength Acetone and it's great as a paint stripper
and glue disolver. Use outdoors, don't breath in the fumes and avoid skin
contact. This stuff is deadly but effective. The paint within
minutes just floats off. Wicked stuff. I have used it to free up 1/300
armour where turrets have been attached with cyanoacrylate glue.
Cheers Dave Tan
[quoted original message omitted]
> David Tan wrote:
> I've used 100% industrial strength Acetone and it's great as a paint
who
> recommended brake fluid to strip unwanted paint from minis. I stripped
Just to shoot in a dose of my own experiences with Acetone (or propanon for us
chemistry buffs:). I'll agree it is extremely efficient, but as long as you
use pure acetone it isn't that dangerous, just ask most organic chemists, they
use it almost as water:) But seriously it is very good because you can then
easily wash off the paint as was said and also it is excellent for removing
the water off the now clean module as it solves the water and it evaporates at
around 40 degress celcius so you just shake the mini and it is perfectly dry..
I would say you can use it inside too but just make sure you get a few breaths
of fresh air every now and then, and your skin gets a dry after some exposure
to it.... Of course you should be aware it is highly flamable..
Now CH2Cl2 that is dangerous....:) (and also at times even better than
acetone)
> scale)). I found the ones I use at Home Depot, a pack of 100
Fender washers, I presume. You can also get them in stainless steel, if you're
rich or not paying attention.
Thanks for the many responses! Many cool ideas to try! :-)