Hello
I modelled some sail wings for some FR models, here's what I did: I cut some
very thin plastic card to the shape I wanted, glued some thin wires around the
edges and accross the surface to depict the ribs, then I glued, using PVA
glue, some tissue paper over the whole thing. The reulting object looked like
a cloth sail with ribs underneath, but was strong. I was pleased with the
results. Happy moddelling!
Peace & Love
When I first started reading I immediately thought of Mylar too. Have you
considered laminating several layers for more rigidity? I haven't tried it,
but it might be worth an attempt.
What are you planning for your sail frame?
Are you thinking something like Sisko's sailer from DS9?
Nathan
> -----Original Message-----
Probably the easiest would be to make a model of the design which looks like a
45 record, glue mylar to both sides and use wire to attach the sail to the
ship. If the 45 is going to be too thick you can always use thin plastic card
to make the disk.
In Wind from the Sun (?) (By Clarke IIRC) there were several models of solar
sail described. One looked like a Maltese cross with 4 trapezoidal arms around
a small circular center.
Hope this helps,
--Binhan
> Mark A. Siefert. wrote:
> Hello:
I've had the same thought bouncing around my head since I picked up FT these
many years gone by. I've never gotten around to modeling them, but
some ideas have come up. First - go to the best hardware store you can
reach. These things are the greatest source for spare parts & kitbashing.
There was a part I saw once, that was near perfect. It was a very flat
cone, maybe 5-6 cm across, with the point cut off so that a 1cm hole was
in the middle. Laid flat, it was no more than 1 cm high. It was light metal
(aluminum?), so with some good mounting (heavy wire for the cables & a good
glue) it would make a great sail. You realize that you'll need two of each
mini, for furled & unfurled sails? I don't know what the real function of the
part was, or what it was called, but you should be able to find something good
at a hardware store.
Noah
[quoted original message omitted]
Hello: OK, here's a tough one! I've been thinking of trying to create a fleet
of solar sail type vessels. (Don't ask me why, we miniature gamers like to
think of such things.) However, I've hit one snag: How in the heck do I model
the actual "sail." First I thought of using plastic wrap glued to a frame of
some sort, but I disarded that quickly because it was transpartent and it
would sag and look very sloppy. Tin foil was my next thought. But that's too
heavy and would look horrible if wrinkled. Mylar would be best if I could find
a way to make it fit snuggly against the model's sail frame. Does anyone have
any thoughts?
> Something similar to mylar (maybe it is mylar) is/was used for covering
> the wings of RC model planes. It shrinks when heat similar to that
They also have some self adhesive "Trim Sheets" that usually are a little
thicker.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> On the fine day of 24/8/98 10:39 pm cthulhu@csd.uwm.edu wrote:
> Hello:
Something similar to mylar (maybe it is mylar) is/was used for covering
the wings of RC model planes. It shrinks when heat similar to that coming from
a hair dryer is applied to it. This material might shrink with more force than
your model can deal with, but it might work out. Good luck.
> Mark A. Siefert. wrote:
> Hello:
First reaction is that I'd go for something rigid and simple (as the
Actress said to the Bishop....) - I actually think a transparent sail
might look best for a miniature, as anything solid or silvered could well look
far too "heavy" on a small model. How about a disk of clear plastic (acetate?)
for the sail with framing lines painted on or applied with a technical pen,
then rigging lines of thin piano wire to connect the sail to the ship?
My first thought would be to use something like Bare-Metal foil around a
frame. For those who are not familiar with this product it is a very thin,
adhesive backed foil used by modelers to replicate unpainted metal or chrome.
It is much thinner than regular foil (some modelers use it to mask off areas
when they spray paint). It also has the advantage that it also comes in a
copper and a gold color.
Kent McClure
> ----------
Mylar - tricky to glue and needs a frame
Paper mache - soak tissue in pva over frame/former - spray silver
Thin plasticard - cut to size - shape using steam/heat - spray silver
Thin foam packing - comes on various fruits food items / cut / glue with
pva -
spray silver (acrylic)
Acetate - cut to size - shape using steam/heat - leave clear
Frames - from piano/brass wire or plastic strut/ extended sprue
Shrouds - button thread / piano/brass wire / extended sprue
Sail shapes - cross, torus, disc, bat-wing
> At 14:14 25/08/98 +0100, you wrote:
SNIP
> Thin plasticard - cut to size - shape using steam/heat - spray silver
SNIP
> Sail shapes - cross, torus, disc, bat-wing
The clear plastic in which many minis (and foodstuffs!) come
blister-packed is often fairly thin but rigid. Another possible shape
would be a shallow dome, which could be formed using the model aeroplane
canopy-forming technique of a male and female mould- the plastic is
fixed across the hole in the F. mould and heated until soft. The M. mould is
then pushed through the plastic and the hole, forming the desired shape. An
advantage of this would be that, if you used a number of standard shapes, you
could make them in batches and keep some as spares for when the inevitable
accidents occur.
Rob
> Mark A. Siefert. wrote:
Many years ago, there was a vile plastic concotion called "dip
art".
You could make cheesy looking plastic flowers by forming loops
Metallized mylar (such as is used for balloons) would, in my opinion, look
best, and it resists tearing pretty well. Thickness would be something like
.001", and if your local plastics distributor doesn't have it as metallized
mylar, try asking for shim stock of.0005 to.002 thick. I don't know of an
adhesive that works particularly well on mylar, though.
You might use 1/16" dia clear acrylic rod for the framework.
Or dope covered tissue, like model airplanes use. It goes on wet, and then
will dry fairly rigid.
On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:15:04 -0700 Nathan Pettigrew
> <nathanp@MICROSOFT.com> writes:
> Mark A. Siefert. wrote:
How about glossy magazine paper? I've got Man'O'War ships with sails cut
strait from magazines. Cut the appropriate shape & curve. Then glue 1 edge to
a mast. They can be a little fragile if not stored properly though.
'Neath Southern Skies
> Metallized mylar (such as is used for balloons) would, in my opinion,
Metalized mylar would, of course, be the most authentic
thing you could use--it's the actual compenent in a number
of designs!
- Sam
In a message dated 98-09-03 09:08:42 EDT, you write:
<< >Metallized mylar (such as is used for balloons) would, in my opinion, look
> best, and it resists tearing pretty well. Thickness would be
Metalized mylar would, of course, be the most authentic
thing you could use--it's the actual compenent in a number
of designs!
- Sam >>
How would you sim in in FT?
> In a message dated 98-09-03 09:08:42 EDT, you write:
I
> >don't know of an adhesive that works particularly well on mylar,
For the model, I'd use clear plastic from a blister-pack,
and round the cut edges to make it look thinner. It could be in any reasonable
shape, but I'd probably use a hexagon. Wash the plastic with metallic silver
to make it silvery but still transparent. For points, I'd allocate maybe 1
hull damage point per row (the last one on the row) to the sail. I'd say
max thrust of 2 if using the sail. Pay for a thrust-2
engine. Actual thrust would be proportional to remaining sail damage points,
rounded to the nearest unit. Note that this could result in a derelict
*without* a threshold roll!
.5-mil mylar is basically fragile stuff!
Using auxiliary engines (normal engines) when sail is deployed destroys the
sail (mark off last damage point on each row), but allows higher thrust
(per normal thrust/design rules). One full turn with
no acceleration is required to deploy or stow the sail. Auxiliary engine is
*separate* from sail, so
ship with thrust-2 sail and thrust-4 auxiliary
engine would pay for *2* engines, one T-2 and one
T-4, which could *not* be used together.
Probably not too useful for combat ships, but maybe
for in-system freighters wandering through the combat
zone, or being escorted during an in-system conflict.
Or maybe freighters with T-1 or T-2 sail "engine" (for
system transit to jump point) and FTL jump engine. This
would be for non-critical bulk cargo.
- Sam