I've been basing my starships miniatures on GW flying stands. (after I've
dropped and broken enough I'll go to the system that Star Ranger uses)
It occurs to me that it would be useful to have the firing arcs on the bases.
It only took a jiffy to whip up something in Adobe Illustrator that would
print out little black discs with firing arcs (and a white rectangle to print
ship ID numbers). I also included a centerline, for fore and aft. This
simplifies working with a turning template.
The problem: What glue do I use to glue these things to the bottom of the
bases?
I tried some liquid paper glue. While it did a good job of adhesion, it didn't
cover completely, which left
I would recommend trying a glue stick. Also, you might want to try applying
the glue to the stand instead of the paper.
> I would recommend trying a glue stick.
Or rubber cement
I've forgotten, is the base wood and flat? I should think 3M's spray artist's
adhesive would do the trick. Nice tack, allows reposition, doesn't soak
through, quite solid after it's fully dry.
I'd think you'd want to do a bunch, as spraying one disk at a time would be
wasteful.
The_Beast
> Doug Evans wrote:
No, I'm using Games Workshop plastic flying bases.
They have a transparent lens-like base. I'm applying
the glue to the face of the printed disk, and sticking
My company does a lot of production work, including non-electronic
prepress, and we DO NOT EVER ALLOW SPRAY ADHESIVE in the office, because it is
real bad for everything. Especially designers.
In other words, be careful when you use that stuff. Even more careful than
when you use a paintgun.
on 03.6.23 11:13 AM, Nyrath the nearly wise at nyrathwiz@comcast.net
scribbleth:
> However, 3M's spray adhesive just might do the trick.
[quoted original message omitted]
Why not use the round clear GW flight basses and paint the face on the base..
I am not a GW infiltrator trying to make commision but they are around 60c a
base Australian dollar.. and they come in large and small sized
.. I
am using them and they seem to work just fine
[quoted original message omitted]
Rubber cement contains petroleum solvents, they may fog or dissolve the
plastic.
> -----Original Message-----
> I've forgotten, is the base wood and flat? I should think 3M's spray
How about spraying the printed disk with artists permanent spray fixative
after the ink has dried (I'd leave it quite a while to be sure), and *then*
applying the disk to the bottom of the plastic base using watered-down
white glue?
You can also get some very thin plastic film with adhesive on one side that is
used to "laminate" paper, but without the heat effects of a "real" laminating
machine. You could print a whole sheet of round disks, use a sheet of the
adhesive film to "laminate" them, cut them out, and stick *that* to the bottom
of the GW base with white glue.
White glue dries transparent, and if you were careful to avoid getting it
on the edges of the disk, it shouldn't seep in under the laminate - and
*that* would provide a barrier so the ink won't run. More work, but faster
than painting the bases one at a time.
Another option would be to create a template (using airbrush frisket, maybe
thin cardstock) with the markings you want on it and use that as a paint
template and spray yellow or white onto the base. You could draw a
circle on a piece of card to the diameter of the base; then cut in with a very
sharp hobby knife the markings you want; then tape the base over the circle;
then turn it over, and spray with white or yellow. When dry, remove from
template and presto!
Well, maybe.
:)
***************************************
Just a thought but painting the round bases black with a starship field and
looking about for number decals/stickers or rub on's then varnishing
might be another answer
I did up a fleet for John Atkinson a while back. I used conventional bases
that came with the miniatures. After one road trip allot of these had to be
repaired (per normal). In the midst of these repairs I came
up with a variation of Star Ranger's method. I use a 3/4 inch block
of ply wood with a normal 10 penny nail as the flight stand with a metal
washer added to the top. I then used self adhesive magnetic strip on the mini
with two small beads of epoxy resin glue (that take for ever to bond but once
dry is pretty tough and the self adhesive holds till that is set) The nice
thing for all the vector types out there is you can add a directional arrow on
the base and the model can be turned and the arrow is the vector line. The
best thing though, is in transport your minis and flight stands are stored
separately.