Micromachine Conversions

I'm working on converting a disassembled Narn dreadnaught into three smaller
ships.  What paints or glues have you folks found effective/ineffective
on the Micromachine's flexible plastic?

Thanks in advance Mike Messenger

Your taking a Narn Dreadnought APART???? Why??? They're perfect as they are
????

Anyway just about any paint will do. Acrylics are fine if you rebember to
varnish, as are normal emamels

  ,-----         Michael Hodgson < mkh100@unix.york.ac.uk  >
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> Your taking a Narn Dreadnought APART ???? Why ??? They're

If any of y'all don't want your Narn dreadnoughts, I'll take 'em!!

Or any of the other related ones  ;-)

Mk

> On Tue, 21 Jan 1997, M Hodgson wrote:

> Your taking a Narn Dreadnought APART ???? Why ???

To get three smaller Narn ships, p'raps?:)

> On Tue, 21 Jan 1997, M Hodgson wrote:

> Your taking a Narn Dreadnought APART ???? Why ???

Ask any Centari!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

> On Tue, 21 Jan 1997, M Hodgson wrote:

Ehhhh, they're just jealous.

Mk

> On Tue, 21 Jan 1997, M Hodgson wrote:

Hmmmm. Since the original question seems to have gone unanswered, I'll add my
two cents.

What works best for MicroMachine conversions?

SUPERGLUE. It's a marvel with MicroMachine. The bond is amazingly solid. Half
o' my Star Trek minis are conversions, and I've done some of the damndest
stuff you could imagine. They'd never hold had they been metal. They work
great.

...
> >On Tue, 21 Jan 1997, M Hodgson wrote:

You mean the Blue one, right? (I believe correctly or not, that's called a
cruiser and the orange one a dreadnaught, by Galoob). Anyway, that one

makes for a couple of fine light cruisers, and a pretty much useless lump from
the center bit. Another source for even lighter escouts, is to take

a TIE Interceptor and give it the same treatment. Take a paint pen and give it
some squiggles for decoration on the large black panels, and voila. Not too
wonderful, but too horrid either.

I just wish we had a source for something Centauriesque in plastic. The metal
from the B5 Wars or Babylon Project or whatever will be so much
more fragile, and I prefer the pour-the-ships-in-a-bag ease of the
Micro-
Machines, since we treat it as a pick-up game.

> >Ask any Centari!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ah, time for another flare up of the Narn-Centari war. I'll actually
have some time for Full Thrust after the Con I've been getting stuff ready for
is over. I'm normally PC-ish, (but no sympathy for the dogmatic
PC-yahoos)
but it's so much more fun to play the space assholes vid ze badt akzentz.

> >Ask any Centari!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No promises, but maybe if I can swing it, I might run a small one in the near
future here...

Mk

> On Thu, 23 Jan 1997, johnjmedway wrote:

> You mean the Blue one, right? (I believe correctly or not, that's

The blue one ('cruiser') is the type called 'Heavy Cruiser' in the show
('...and three heavy cruisers in close orbit', when the Shadows hit that

first Narn outpost in Quadrant 37), while the orange one is the standard

'War Cruiser' seen in the other battles.

Later,

> At 07:21 AM 1/21/97 -0500, Mike wrote:

I haven't tried it on the Micromachines, but the best glue I've found for
plastic is called _Goop_. Goop comes in a couple of different forms. I
have Goop and Crafter's Goop.

The first thing I tried to glue was a Norman cavalry man from the Revell
Norman set of HO figures. These are made of similar soft plastic as Airfix,
Matchbox, ESCI, etc. figures. I put a spot of glue on it and let it stand
overnight (as suggested). I've tried cyanoacrylite (super glue), model glue
(liquid and tube) and two-part epoxy before, and none of them held the
plastic together for any length of time. After the Goop cured overnight, I
picked up the model by the rider. It stayed together. I ended up shaking the
figure violently and tugging it. It's still stuck together (a year later). I
would suggest that this might be your best bet for the Micromachines.

As far as paint, that could be a bit difficult. Someone on
rec.games.miniatures.historical was talking about coating plastic figures with
polyurethane. The polyurethane, while thick, hardens and protects the
figure. Check out the newsgroup and/or Deja News for more info.

> At 06:45 AM 1/23/97 -0600, John wrote:

What kind of conversions did you do? I've got a fair number of ST ships from
Micromachines and I can get more at a good price. Just wondering what you did
with them...

There is a wonderful set of glues for teh modeler called Hot Stuff and SuperT.
They are similar to super glues but SuperT is also gap filling (to a point).
You can get them at most hobby store.

Paul

----------
From:	John Kovalic[SMTP:muskrat@msn.fullfeed.com]
Sent:	Thursday, January 23, 1997 4:45 AM
To:     FTGZG-L@bolton.ac.uk
Subject:	RE: Micromachine Conversions

> On Tue, 21 Jan 1997, M Hodgson wrote:

Hmmmm. Since the original question seems to have gone unanswered, I'll add my
two cents.

What works best for MicroMachine conversions?

SUPERGLUE. It's a marvel with MicroMachine. The bond is amazingly solid. Half
o' my Star Trek minis are conversions, and I've done some of the damndest
stuff you could imagine. They'd never hold had they been metal. They work
great.

> On Thu, 23 Jan 1997, John Kovalic wrote:

> What works best for MicroMachine conversions?

My question deal with un-glueing.  I received a Star Trek Micromachine
box set where some of the nacelles were not glued on straight. Any suggestions
on how to correct the problem without doing too much damage?

> On Thu, 23 Jan 1997, John Kovalic wrote:

I just pull them off, as straight as possible. The glue MicroMachines use DOES
giveway, if you're careful about it. It's not nearly as solid a bond as it
seems, and it's allowed me to make many Destroyers and Frigates by pulling off
Bridges and nacelles and glueing them together.