Metal stuff - Soldering

4 posts ยท Oct 26 1999 to Oct 27 1999

From: Thomas Barclay <Thomas.Barclay@s...>

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:08:33 -0400

Subject: Metal stuff - Soldering

Q:
I assume the melting point of Lead-Acid solder or Rosin Core solder
(or Eutectic for that matter) is low, as is the melting point of lead minis.
Therefore, I would have thought solder a poor choice for bonding minis
together. However, I also know Pewter may have a different and higher melting
point.

Has anyone tried soldering together minis like Jon makes? What were the
results?

I'm interested in this as I am competent with a soldering station and would
consider using it to attach smaller parts (fins and such) if I didn't think it
would damage the minis.

Any experiences from the list in this area would be of interest.

From: Adrian Johnson <ajohnson@i...>

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:51:00 -0400

Subject: Re: Metal stuff - Soldering

> I assume the melting point of Lead-Acid solder or Rosin Core solder

The melting point of common solder is lower than lead (and certainly lower
than pewter).

I'd stick to a pin-vise, brass rod, and cyanoacrylate or epoxy....  Much
more exacting, I'd have thought.

From: Ground Zero Games <jon@g...>

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 00:08:13 +0100

Subject: Re: Metal stuff - Soldering

> I assume the melting point of Lead-Acid solder or Rosin Core solder

For interest, we run our pewter at about 305-310 degrees C. It's
liquidus is around 260 C. The metal is actually about 90% tin, 5% lead and 5%
other stuff (antimony, copper etc.).

From: Tim Jones <Tim.Jones@S...>

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 10:19:25 +0100

Subject: RE: Metal stuff - Soldering

> Has anyone tried soldering together minis like Jon makes? What were

As I posted yesterday I use low melt (for metal railway kits) solder for the
fiddly bits, but its hard to get it to work for large pieces and then you
usually don't have too as there is enough of
a pin/hole in the casting to allow epoxy gluing easily.

The problem with solder is that to do a large area you have to heat up a large
area and this is tricky, I have an iron with a rheostat that stops it heating
above the melting point of white metal but even then its not worth the effort.
You can buy expensive resistance soldering equipment but its not worth it.

On the GZG models I soldered the wings on the NSL ships (I have some earlier
versions that had these), also the small NAC
command booms/bridge pieces and the hull of the KV superdreadnought.
Results were all excellent, durable joints.

The mimis where solder is a complete boon is the FASA trek models getting the
engines and other intricacies to stay, I found it the only durable solution.