Finally trying the magic wash thing. A few questions:
What ration of magic wash stock (1:4 future:water mix) and ink should one use?
(I find inks seem to be very strong, so I'd assume something dilute?) And
similarly, what ratio with paint? (some ballpark guestimates or "this is what
I do" would suffice)
Also, I heard you can add a drop or two of dish detergent to good effect.
Though I forget
exactly why - surfactant? Or do I misremember?
Also, lastly, I've heard it suggested you should use a separate brush for it.
Why? If you wash your brush with soap and water after the fact, why would it
matter? (I ask because I'm loathe to write off one of my sable brushes to this
mix but I do want to try it out).
I'm painting ESU Heavy infantry. I have painted them in an autumnal camo
pattern. Only one
worry - if I wash brown, it'll probably sit int he
grooves on the quilted coat. Not sure if that will look bad on top of the
camouflage colours or not. Have to try it on one and see.
PPS - Colour scheme:
OD green base (Tamiya) Hell Hound Brown splotches Yellow 06 Armouries paint
splotches (have to find out what the actual colour of this is!) Some packs and
high boots are Minotaur Brown. Khaki Drab for chest mag pouches, ruck, and
webgear (Tamiya) Sun tan, Asian, or other related shades for flesh.
Drow Flesh for KI-72 AR and the SAW.
Will post some pix to stargrunt.ca (warning: I'm
no amazo-painter, so I don't expect them to
rival Mr.Cho's photos, nor those of the likes of the Great Ghostly Crimmins
and his ilk). But they'll be serviceable for wargaming.:)
I've recently been intoducted to magic wash and have done some 15's and 25's
with it in the last few weeks.
Some notes:
Stock Magic wash is 1 part Future to 3 parts water (1:4)
I use two drops (eye dropper) of magic wash to 2 drops water to 1 paintbrush
dab of black for dark washes (I use a 000 brush).
I start thin, then slowly add more paint if I feel the effect isn't dark
enough. For some creases and areas between metal plates I will put 1 dab of
black in 1 drop of magic wash.
Detergent helps keep the wash off raised surfaces. Large flat areas still have
problems with pooling, so I have been selectively washing areas using a 000
brush to apply wash to the grooves and crevices, usually just touching the
groove will cause enough wash to capillary out to fill it.
Dark brown is a good color for flesh areas since it is a more flesh color than
gray or black.
Hope this helps.
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
> On Thu, 2002-06-27 at 17:43, Thomas Barclay wrote:
Magic Wash rocks!
> What ration of magic wash stock (1:4
I mixed up plenty ahead of time in a 4 oz nozzle-bottle. I mixed 1 part
Future with 3 parts distilled water. The amount and color of ink I use differs
depending on the effect I'm looking for. As Binhan suggested, start with a
little, and add more until it's right.
Using distilled water in any wash (not just magic) is a good idea, because
regular water has minerals and such in it that can cause a "ring" around the
washed area instead of all the color being pulled into the recesses as it
dries.
> Also, I heard you can add a drop or two of
Yes, I've heard that also, but I haven't added any myself. My belief is that
the future has enough surfactants in it on it's own. It is, after all,
intended to have a low surface tension on it's own, part of why it's so shiny
when used on the floor.
> Also, lastly, I've heard it suggested you should
I have used my good wash brushed for this stuff without any problems. I am
very careful to rinse more and more often when using it though. When I finish,
I use alcohol to complete the cleaning.
Note: Before someone overseas asks about the availability of Future
floor polish - If you can't find it, look for "flow-aid". It's pretty
much the same kind of stuff, though mixing up your own from future is
supremely cheap.
> Flak Magnet wrote:
> Note: Before someone overseas asks about the availability of Future
In the UK, Johnson Wax 'Klear' seems to do the same job.
Thanks for that bit of info... I've shared that with a painting group I'm on
as a couple of months ago they were trying to figure out an equivalent product
for the UK.
> On Fri, 2002-06-28 at 11:50, Tony Francis wrote:
On 28 Jun 2002 11:16:43 -0400, Flak Magnet
> <flakmagnet@tabletop-battlezone.com> wrote:
> Using distilled water in any wash (not just magic) is a good idea,
Where does one usually find distilled water for sale?
> Allan Goodall wrote:
Some supermarkets sell drinking water that's been run through a reverse
osmosis filter. That's close enough to distilled.
Places where you can buy stuff for cars.
I've also seen it in grocery stores.
> On Fri, 2002-06-28 at 14:01, Allan Goodall wrote:
Allan said
> Where does one usually find distilled water for sale?
Any garage. Hopefully it's what you put in the radiator!!!
Hobby pages
> Allan Goodall wrote:
In the US, look for NASCAR water. It's distilled and then reoxygenated, or
something like that. Tastes as good as it sounds....
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.372 / Virus Database: 207 - Release Date: 6/20/2002
On Fri, 28 Jun 2002 14:21:08 -0400, John Sowerby <sowerbyj@fiu.edu>
wrote:
> In the US, look for NASCAR water. It's distilled and then reoxygenated,
Thanks to all for the advice on finding distilled water! I'll look for it.
I've used Future in the past (I guesstimated the ratio of Future to water) and
it worked well, but I also still had the "staining" problem. Wasn't using
distilled water! I'll look for it this weekend.
> On 28-Jun-02 at 14:03, Allan Goodall (agoodall@att.net) wrote:
> Where does one usually find distilled water for sale?
Grocery store, it's what you are supposed to use in an iron when you iron
clothes. It stops the sludge from ending up on your shirts.
Some grocery stores offer carbon and ion filtered water which is the next best
thing. You can always just boil some up and tap the distillate from the pot
lid into a funnel and into a bottle. Time consuming, but not difficult to do.
Remember to store in a glass bottle, as distilled water, lacking a lot of ions
and minerals will draw
out chemicals, ions and stuff from plastic, metal and non-glazed
ceramics.
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
> At 12:59 PM 6/28/2002 -0600, you wrote:
Not particularly. Most labs store distilled water in plastic containers.
Our labs stores our de-ionized water in polypropylene carbouys, but then
again we use about 5 L a day so it cycles through pretty quickly. If the water
sits around more than a few months, it will extract stuff from plastic. Our
HPLC grade water is stored in glass to prevent it from picking up more than a
few PPM of metals and other "contaminants". In our RO (Reverse Osmosis)
system, water in the reservoir can increase in conductance (a measure of the
ions present) from 4 microsiemens to over
100 microsiemens over night. Our standard to consider water de-ionized
is 20 microsiemens. Admittedly this is probably a much higher standard than
the average painter needs, but I was considering the fact that if someone buys
a gallon of such water, they probably aren't using it up in
week or two, and it may remain around for months. For such long-term
storage, I would definitely recommend glass.
Anecdotal evidence - when you buy a new plastic canteen or tupperware,
place some water in it overnight at room temperature. If you taste the water
in the morning, it will often have that "plastic" taste to it.
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
> Will post some pix to stargrunt.ca (warning: I'm
"Great Ghostly", am I? Blame the heat, then -- only one room in this
house
is air-conditioned, and it doesn't contain the computer. Or my painting
table, damn the luck. I've been reading GW novels instead, much to my
surprise, and found that some of them are quite surprisingly good. Whoever it
was on the list that recommended the "Gaunt's Ghosts" novels, thank you.
(And for the record, I have a bottle of Future Floor Wax, and I'm still
experimenting with it to find the proportions that will work for me.)
I intend to work on an AAR, by the way, but those interested in the "Fire Hawk
Down" scenario from last week can see some pictures at:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/pageminis/lst?.dir=/Firehawk+
Down&.src=gr&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%
3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/pageminis/lst%3f.dir=/Firehawk%
2bDown%26.src=gr%26.view=t
Or, far more reasonably, by following THIS link:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?T51561921
There are more pictures to come, too.
We ended the game relatively early, without any clear winner, but the Empire
clearly had the edge in style. But then, they usually do.