[GZG] Miniatures Transport

Mr.Seibold said: I tried your system about 4 years ago (the round brass tubes)
for my
1/300 scale aircraft
and I rejected it due to too many problems.
-The brass tube is not that easy to cut. I used a special brass tube
cutter which worked like a pipe cutter but still the tube would get slightly
deformed. You have to ream out the larger brass tube and clean (dremel tool
sander) the end of the smaller tube to get a proper fit.
- The brass tube is difficult to attach to the ship. You have to drill
out a space that's bigger then the brass tube or drill into the model and
anchor a wire in the model and into the brass tube. The tubes are not that
small, the smaller tubes are about half the size of of a GZG fighter.
-When finished you now have a model with a brass tube sticking out of
it's bottom which will be difficult to store when not in it's stand.

I say: 1. Do not use circular tubing. Use square. Resists deformation. 2. Do
not use tube cutter (won't work on square anyway). Use Dremel or fine toothed
hacksaw/razorsaw. Cuts cleanly and easily cleaned up with a small bit of
metal sandpaper. 3. I flush mount the larger square tube to the ship or drill
in slightly to mount it. I don't drill far in if I drill at all. To get the
right embedding depth for the smaller insert tubing, you want to have some
depth inside the larger tubing. probably better to actually put this in the
bases' larger tubing. (see illo below) 4. You do have a small bit of brass
sticking out of the bottom of the ship. This is still far less of a pox than
an entire stand sticking out. Most storage cases will allow this to sink into
the foam. It might result in wear in tear on the foam <shrug>.

I've had tooooo many plastic bases snap off at the ship (meaning I have to
drill out the
plastic tip) or at the base (meaning I have to re-shaft the entire
thing. Plus most hex bases are too small for stability with the big ships.
That's key in my group. Knockovers would otherwise be common. They knock
plastic hexbase escorts over with abandon, but
bigger ships with the described brass-tube mount and bigger white metal
disk below are far more stable and resist it. Which is good, since many are
fancier designs that would break.

Diagram for prior comment:

--------------------

<here be ship>

    |     |
----|     |---------
    |     |
    |     |

Then on the post

     |   |
     |   |
     |   |
    ||   ||
    ||   ||
    ||   ||
    ||   ||
    |     |
    |     |
    |     |
    |     |
    |     |
    |     |
    |     |
    |     |
    |     |
   =|     |=
===============      (this is the white metal base)

Roger Books gave good info. I'm just reinforcing Roger's points. This system
works. It takes a bit of work to build, but the results are good.

YMMV of course, as Scott's did, though he used the round tube which I don't
recommend.

Tom B

Is there a reason for mounting the larger tube on the base and on the ship and
putting the smaller tube inside the bigger one? Would it also work to either:

1. Use the smaller tube as the base and mount the larger tube on
the ship and just slip the larger tube + ship onto the smaller tube?

2. Use the larger tube at the base and mount the smaller tube on
the ship and insert the smaller tube + ship into the larger tube?

Anyone try that?

--Greg

_______________________________________________
Gzg-l mailing list
Gzg-l@lists.csua.berkeley.edu
http://lists.csua.berkeley.edu/mailman/listinfo/gzg-lI do it the second
way. I actually use large square on the basee and smaller "channel" on the
ship. After cutting the channel I bevel the edges with the dremel. Adds 3 or 4
seconds.

An additional advantage is I have "painting" bases. They have been primered
about 15 times now.:)

Roger

> On 9/16/05, Gregory Wong <sax@soundingrocket.com> wrote:

> Gregory Wong wrote:
Presumably, this is so you can vary the height of the stand of each individual
ship so you can pack them together a little better on the playing surface. Why
you would want two ships physically overlapping on the table is another
question, entirely.

For maximum height variability, a short bit of large OD tubing on the ship and
a short bit of large OD tubing on the base with a variety of lengths of small
OD tubing for actual pegs. Large OD tubing goes on the ship rather than the
small OD to prevent visible paint marring caused by

the tubing (if the re/movable tube is /inside/ the affixed tube, you
cannot /see/ any paint damage caused by this basing method.)