Brian, DS/2 should be 1/300th or 1/285th (old microarmour scales) or
6mm, as opposed to
7mm or 1/350th. (The odd part is 1/350th should be smaller than 1/300th,
and 7mm should be bigger than 6mm....?)
I'd like to see a pic of the DP9 new figs you think work as PA - I
always find when I stand them next to a human figure, I see some place the
human would not fit. I do have
about 30-40 of the older gears though, and now have some painted up for
the UN and some for the ESU. (One day, when taxes, work, and sick parents
allow... I'll get pix up on stargrunt.ca)
25mm means different things to different folks. Some people reckon figure
scale from boot sole to top of hat or helmet. Some reckon from bootsole to eye
height on the figure. Then we've had 'scale creep' from GW into gargantuan
28mm and then 30mm. GZG's stuff looks to
me to be about 1/64th scale. 1/72nd is closer to 15 or 20mm. 1/32nd or
1/35th is too big.
Let's say our 1" high GZG figure is meant to be about 5'8" tall, which would
be about 68".
But since many model makers blow scaling stuff badly, some 1/35th scale
stuff will work,
some 1/72nd scale stuff will work, and anything in between may work. I
usually size to things like seats or control areas or cockpit sizes or how big
the item will be on the table. At 1" = 10m, I don't mind if the vehicle is a
bit smaller. Big resins eat up about 80m worth of board space! Now, if you're
playing a 1"=2m skirmish game, then having a big
tank eat up 6-8" is not so bad. But at 1"=10m, many of the GWesque
vehicles (like my old
Armorcast Temptests at 10-12") are just waaaay tooo biiiiig.
TomB Not dead, just too busy to speak up much...
I am currently working on two 1/72 scale conversions of tanks for my
15mm SG stuff. I have found that the 1/72 modern tanks fall into the
realm of super-heavies as they are truly monstrous when put next to a
15mm fig. WW2 tanks seems to end up at a more reasonable place, though
finding WW2 that can be changed into good sci-fi is hard (not
impossible, but hard).
Eli
> On 8/26/05, Thomas Barclay <kaladorn@magma.ca> wrote:
I understand the official meanings of the scales, but I've found that because
different SF modellers have different ideas about the size of
future vehicles, the two scales (1/300 and 1/350) overlap, and was
wondering specifically about the DP9 figs sitting right next to GZG stuff.
> I'd like to see a pic of the DP9 new figs you think work as PA - I
For me it's mostly the head, but I PSB that most of the soldier's head is
actually in the torso.
I do have
> about 30-40 of the older gears though, and now have some painted up
I'll get pix up on
> stargrunt.ca)
'Twould be cool.
I'd think the WWII US tanks would be hardest to convert to SF, and the German
or Brit stuff the easiest.
> On 8/26/05, Eli Arndt <emu2020@comcast.net> wrote:
The ex-Matchbox (now Revell) Chaffee is a great model to convert to SF.
Leave the track guards, suspension and hull sides off and the hole can be
plated over with a single piece of plastic card. You can either
decorate the blank side with blowers (the exhausts from a 1/72nd AV-8*
Harrier would work well) or just leave them blank and you'll have a very
respectable 15mm scale tank. The turret shape is rounded so it doesn't look
too WW2 and because the Chaffee isn't often recognised outside of WW2 buffs
you won't have everyone walking up to the table telling you they know what
your conversions were based on...
I've always liked the look of the Sheridan as a hover tank too.
[quoted original message omitted]
> WW2 tanks seems to end up at a more reasonable place, though
I always think that in lots of SF, the design of AFVs has apparently been
going backwards. All sorts of features (high profiles, vertical armour, shot
traps, hull guns, side barbettes etc.) that were
obsolete before the end of WW2 are common. Take a look at the circa-
WW1 designs peddled by GW for example.