Some time ago, it was mentioned that some people play Stargrunt in 6mm.
Are there any rules/recommendations on how best to do this? I'm mostly
thinking about how to manage troops, since SG uses individual figures, but
doing this in 6mm could be fiddly.
If troops are based as a unit (or in twos or threes), how do people track
casualties, or which figure has been killed? All the options I've thought of
require lots of markers per squad.
Samuel Penn schrieb:
> Some time ago, it was mentioned that some people play Stargrunt in
As far as I remember the discussions, the 6mm figures people used were based
indivdually on fairly large bases (washers, coins etc.)
You could also base figures in sets of 1, 2, and 4 figures, this allows you to
combine them to any number in a squad.
Greetings Karl Heinz
> On Wednesday 17 December 2008 17:29:08 K.H.Ranitzsch wrote:
Hmm, that would lead to very spread out squads, though I guess it would fit
within the unit cohesion rules. Would it make sense to tighten up the cohesion
limits with smaller figures?
> You could also base figures in sets of 1, 2, and 4 figures, this
I've thought of that, since I have 2-,3- and 4-figure bases for
troops. However, then I'd need a marker to denote casualties, and more markers
if the casualty has a SAW or other specialist weapon.
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l, on the plus side, 6mm is the right scale for SG2.
???!??? you say!
10m = 1" = 2.54 cm. 6mm is slightly less than 1/4". That's 2.5m. So 6mm
is pretty close to a 2m figure in full battle rattle.
So 6mm starts out being right - 6mm terrain can become very nearly
WYSIWYG.
If you base a squad on standard GZG 2,3,4 person bases (2-3 of them),
you can generally handle normal scenarios and detached elements.
I briefly toyed with mounting every figure via a brass rod peg protruding from
the base and a hole in the middle of each 'figure space' in Jon's bases. When
I realized the accuracy I'd have to develop in drilling to get this right, I
sort of abandoned the plan.
I think if you want removable figures, you might try:
1) Don't glue the figure into the GZG base, just use a small bit of
blue-tac. That should hold it and you can lift it out as needed.
2) Don't use a GZG base. Make an approximate right sized base out of
hardboard 1/8" thick (or a metal base from sheet metal, or a cardstock
base from heavy cardstock, or a plastic base from some stiff sheet styrene).
Mount a pile of blue-tac on it. Paint said blue-tac green and flock it.
Then, drill each figure's base (with a pin vise) between the legs and insert a
small chunk of brass rod or else a short chunk of a finishing nail. Leave
it to protrude from the base about 3/16" or so. Since the blue tac
should remain a bit tacky, you should be able to just push the pin into the
blue-tac.
This seems odd, but I have a friend does this with his tropical trees. He
has stands about 4-6" with flocked blue-tac (I think in his case, he
gets florists clay from a florist), paints it, and flocks it. Then the trees
he just stabs into it. If he wants more trees in the stand, he stabs a few
more
in. Less, he pulls them out. Moving the bases is easy - he detaches
trees from stands and both ship pretty flat.
This same approach (blue tac or florists clay) could be used to give 6mm
figures an easy insertion/removability aspect.
If you avoid this, you could go with wound caps or the small elastic marking
wound states put around the figure. Seen both of those in 1/72 at
wargames conventions.
6mm would give you a more appropriate feel for the scale of t he battlefield,
which is why it has always tempted me.
The only impediment is I hate painting 6mm figures!
T.
> On Mon, Dec 22, 2008 at 2:29 PM, Tom B <kaladorn@gmail.com> wrote:
For my SG2 board game variant, I came up with a squad status sheet that let
you record the status of every member of a squad. With that, all you would
need is a standard 6mm stand for your figures. You
could, of course, swap it for half-sized stands to handle detachments
or squads that take a lot of damage.
The only other rule that really needed to be changed was how artillery worked,
since you can't simply say "hey, what figures are under the templated?" in
this version. But that's no big deal, either.
I could e-mail the record sheet, or put it on my web site, if people
are interested.
> TomB wrote:
> I briefly toyed with mounting every figure via a brass rod peg
Not that much if you make a set of "drill masters". Take a single base and
drill a hole straight through that base as close to the centre as you can
manage. This is your master for drilling holes into the infantry figures' base
plates
Next, take the base plate from a broken infantry model (c'mon, you must have
*some* figures that broke off at the ancles that you never bothered to
repair...!), put it in the master base and drill from the base through the
"figure". This is your master for drilling holes into the multi-figure
bases.
Make sure you mark both bases very clearly so you don't mislay them by
mistake... :-/
'Course, blu-tack works OK too :-p
BTW, Merry Christmas everyone (or whatever other holidays you're currently
celebrating)!
> On Monday 22 December 2008 20:29:35 Tom B wrote:
Pretty much the conclusion that we come to every time we have a battle. 25mm
has the best 'look' in my opinion, despite the
discrepancy in figure/table scale, but 6mm fits the ground
scale pretty well though seems fiddly to use (15mm IMO combines
the worst of both scales - or at least, doesn't provide enough
of an advantage).
> So 6mm starts out being right - 6mm terrain can become very nearly
Another option I've thought about is magnetic bases, though I don't know how
well they'd work in practice. I've seen magnetic DIY base material at shows,
but I've never got around to buying any to give it a try.
> 2) Don't use a GZG base. Make an approximate right sized base out of
That sounds like another idea worth investigating.
> 6mm would give you a more appropriate feel for the scale of t he
I've already got a couple of armies for DirtSide, so that's not too much of an
issue, though a lot less thought has gone into them compared to my (~6) 25mm
armies.
> On Monday 22 December 2008 21:15:35 Allan Goodall wrote:
> I could e-mail the record sheet, or put it on my web site, if people
Colour me interested.
Samuel Penn schrieb:
> You could also base figures in sets of 1, 2, and 4 figures, this
No need for casualty markers. I suggest you use the figure bases like change
money.
Start with, say, a 12-figure squad with 3 bases of 4. If you loose a
trooper, replace a 4-figure base with a 3-figure one. Lose 2 more and
the you replace the 3-figure base with a single figure and so on.
SG2 lends itself well to this approach as it generally works with area effects
rather than single figures.
For specialists, I suggest you use single figure-bases or weapons teams.
Single figures would be removed, weapons teams that take casaulties are
replaced by normal figures.
Greetings Karl Heinz
> On Saturday 27 December 2008 13:56:49 K.H.Ranitzsch wrote:
That could work. Requires more figures per squad, but then 6mm figures are
hardly expensive (or take long to paint).
Specialists would need to be single figures however - otherwise you
need to account for a weapons team (I assume you mean two figures, one of
which is the specialist) which loses the specialist, plus
a team which loses the non-specialist.
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The only issue I can se from that is that you will end up with very bunched
squads (or huge bases) that would be rediculously vulnerable to artillery
attack (one of the many reasons that soldiers are not bunched up in reality).
I personally play SGII at both 25mm (Sci-fi) and 6mm (Fictional C1984
conflict, Brits and Russians in Northern France). There is a nice satisfaction
to playing 6mm SG (with all but weapons teams based individually) given that
ground and figure scale are the same. It takes me a while to get my eye in
when working out who is what, but a judicious basing (colour coded rocks) do
help.
Richard> From: sam@glendale.org.uk> To:
gzg-l@vermouth.csua.berkeley.edu> Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 10:08:44 +0000>
Subject: Re: [GZG] 6mm Stargrunt> > On Saturday 27 December 2008
13:56:49 K.H.Ranitzsch wrote:> > Samuel Penn schrieb:> > >>You could also base
figures in sets of 1, 2, and 4 figures, this allows> > >>you to combine them
to any number in a squad.> > >> > > I've thought of
that, since I have 2-,3- and 4-figure bases for> > > troops. However,
then I'd need a marker to denote casualties,> > > and more markers if the
casualty has a SAW or other specialist> > > weapon.> >> > No need for casualty
markers.> > I suggest you use the figure bases like change
money.> >> > Start with, say, a 12-figure squad with 3 bases of 4. If
you loose a> > trooper, replace a 4-figure base with a 3-figure one.
Lose 2 more and> > the you replace the 3-figure base with a single
figure and so on.> >> > SG2 lends itself well to this approach as it generally
works with area> > effects rather than single figures.> >> >
For specialists, I suggest you use single figure-bases or weapons
teams.> > Single figures would be removed, weapons teams that take casaulties
are> > replaced by normal figures.> > That could work. Requires more figures
per squad, but then 6mm> figures are hardly expensive (or take long to
paint).> > Specialists would need to be
single figures however - otherwise you> need to account for a weapons
team (I assume you mean two figures,> one of which is the specialist) which
loses the specialist, plus> a team which loses the
non-specialist.> > -- > Be seeing you, http://www.glendale.org.uk> Sam.
[quoted original message omitted]
> On Monday 29 December 2008 12:12:19 KH.Ranitzsch@t-online.de wrote:
My NSL squads are 6-man, 1 squad leader, 1 SAW, 1 GMS/P + 3 riflemen.
That's going to be difficult to split.
[quoted original message omitted]