Anyone out there have any pointers on using Sculpy to make ships and the such
with? I just started to use this stuff to make bases for my Battletech minis
and it works great. What kind of longevity can I expect? That is a big issue
also.
Thanks, Kirk
BSA Pack 23 & Troop 23 Rockmart/Aragon, Ga.
Mechanical Designer Wargamer
"Who touches a boy by the Master's plan Is shaping the course of a future man,
Is dealing with one who is living seed And may be a man whom the world will
need. "
From: <Alderfek@aol.com>
Re: Sculpy
> What kind of longevity can I expect ? That is a big issue also.
About 3 years ago, I made some field defences out of Sculpy. No visible
degradation so far. When used as directed, it appears to retain structural
strength, even in fine detail.
In a message dated 11/23/03 3:23:51 PM Central Standard Time,
> aebrain@webone.com.au writes:
> About 3 years ago, I made some field defences out of Sculpy.
You have to watch out for thin tendrils which come out of the sculpy -
they tend to break off, but otherwise, its great.
I have some buildings made from Sculpy that were done over a cardboard frame
then detail carved in then painted. They've held up for over fifteen
years........so far..)
> Anyone out there have any pointers on using Sculpy to make ships and
> minis
My wife does a lot of work with Sculpey -- come to Philcon, buy her
artwork!
Everyone needs a Cthulhu head Christmas ball for their tree! --
including
some terrain-type stuff for me. It's all held up very well, although --
as
someone's already noted -- thin tendrils of the stuff tend to snap off
rather easily.
In a message dated 11/23/03 6:47:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> john1x@hotmail.com writes:
> It's all held up very well, although -- as
> rather easily.
Well I am planning on using it to make the main hulls with it. The rest will
be common craft/model items and evergreen styrene sheet. I am mainly
looking for something to make my minis with that doesnt involve the molten
leads/pewter
or really any type of casting.
Kirk
BSA Pack 23 & Troop 23 Rockmart/Aragon, Ga.
Mechanical Designer Wargamer
"Who touches a boy by the Master's plan Is shaping the course of a future man,
Is dealing with one who is living seed And may be a man whom the world will
need. "
Sculpey can chip - I have a couple of FT carrier hulls made from it and
someone dropped one and a 1/8" chip came off. I suspect it was because
I didn't mix the scuply well enough into ball and it probably had an air
pocket or something inside. Other than that they have lasted about 10 years or
so.
If you're really worried about durability, try blue-yellow (green) two
part expoxy putty. Much more expensive (about $9 for about 4 oz. vs. $9 for 1
pound) but it's tough stuff and you could theoretically use your models as
casting masters.
--Binhan
[quoted original message omitted]
> If you're really worried about durability, try blue-yellow (green) two
No theoretically about it; I've seen Sandy Gerrity as well as other 'masters'
use it.
*shhh* The secret is in keeping your utensils wet, though I've never
understood how THAT works...
It sure looks like Germy's originals were green putty.
The_Beast
Well, I didn't mean that Epoxy wasn't the correct material for the model, just
that the model design might not be conducive to putting in a mold (overhangs,
multiple parts etc.) So that it should be a consideration when making the
model out of epoxy that if you wanted to cast it, you would either need to
design it so the whole ship could be cast or cast the various parts then
assemble the ships.
:)
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
***
Well, I didn't mean that Epoxy wasn't the correct material for the model, just
that the model design might not be conducive to putting in a mold (overhangs,
multiple parts etc.) So that it should be a consideration when making the
model out of epoxy that if you wanted to cast it, you would either need to
design it so the whole ship could be cast or cast the various parts then
assemble the ships.
***
I knew you knew, just teasing.
On the other hand, I should also point out that talent in sculpting would be
implied. In my case, it's not theoretical, it's not even speculative. I think
it approaches high fantasy.
That's what I like about ships-from-trash; cut off the big recognizable
bits, file other parts flat, and scratch in some detail lines. Sheer magic.
The_Beast
> >If you're really worried about durability, try blue-yellow (green)
two
> part expoxy putty. Much more expensive (about $9 for about 4 oz. vs.
$9
> for 1 pound) >but it's tough stuff and you could theoretically use your
Duro putty, known in the trade as "Greenstuff" (duh, 'cos it's
green....).
Most sculptors use either this or one of the Milliput grades (normally the
terracotta or superfine white).
> *shhh* The secret is in keeping your utensils wet, though I've never
Stops your tools sticking, allows you to smooth the putty without "dragging"
the surface. Some sculptors dip their tools in vaseline or water, I've seen
others lick them (though that can apparently be potentially harmful and is not
to be recommended).
I can't believe I just typed that with a straight face....
***
> *shhh* The secret is in keeping your utensils wet, though I've never
Stops your tools sticking, allows you to smooth the putty without "dragging"
the surface. Some sculptors dip their tools in vaseline or water, I've seen
others lick them (though that can apparently be potentially harmful and is not
to be recommended).
***
Jon, this was your turn to misunderstood ME; I knew it was to keep it from
sticking, my confusion is how you keep the chrome tools I've seen used to
stay wet while working. Tends to just slide off, you know... ;->=
The_Beast
JonT said: Some sculptors dip <snip> I've seen others <snip>
> I can't believe I just typed that with a straight face....
<grin> Let's keep this a family-friendly list, please!
(I *don't* believe you typed that with a straight face).
> On Monday 24 November 2003 12:39 pm, Ground Zero Games wrote:
"Green stuff" the Duro "Kneadatite" putty is actually safe. Milliput is
decidedly toxic.
I looked online for an MSDS on the green stuff, but couldn't find it in the
amount of time I had before I had to send this message.
--Tim
> Tim Gray wrote:
> "Green stuff" the Duro "Kneadatite" putty is actually safe. Milliput
If all else fails, your nearest GW store should have it :-/
I have made up a few test hulls with the Sculpy. Its been a while since I had
used the green stuff but so far I am liking the Sculpy better. I will try to
get a few made up and pics taken over the holidays.
Thanks for all the responses, Kirk
BSA Pack 23 & Troop 23 Rockmart/Aragon, Ga.
Mechanical Designer Wargamer
"Who touches a boy by the Master's plan Is shaping the course of a future man,
Is dealing with one who is living seed And may be a man whom the world will
need. "
Seeing all this talk about sculpting and how the "Masters" do it makes this
seem like a good time to mention a sculpting-specific mailing list:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/1listsculpting
Even if you don't want to read the mailing list, the FAQ is an excellent
resource.
This list is populated by numerous sculpting luminaries. Sandra Garrity
included.
So if you're interest in sculpting goes beyond what's on-topic for this
list, check it out.
--Tim
> On Tuesday 25 November 2003 12:55 am, Oerjan Ohlson wrote:
Bah! Too pricey. I purchased a 36" roll for 33% over the price of a
GW-packaged sniping about 10-12" long.
I realize the in a pinch it would have to do, but there really is a better
way. If there it interest, I could transcribe the "where to buy putty" links
from the 1listculpting group here...
--Tim
> Seeing all this talk about sculpting and how the "Masters" do it makes
I can't go there; they already have a beast... ;->=
> Bah! Too pricey. I purchased a 36" roll for 33% over the price of a
You can generally find epoxy at better prices in the dealer's area at game
cons, and you KNOW that can't be cheap!
Still, for quick and dirty, a swing by the local gaming store is usually trip
worth taking even if dear. Can you tell I've a friend in the business?
;->=
The_Beast
> On Tuesday 25 November 2003 01:08 pm, Doug Evans wrote:
> I can't go there; they already have a beast... ;->=
Poor you...
> >Bah! Too pricey. I purchased a 36" roll for 33% over the price of a
I picked mine up at a local brick-and-mortar that happens to have the
website www.michtoy.com.
> Still, for quick and dirty, a swing by the local gaming store is
Yes, there is something to be said for supporting your local gaming stores. I
buy 12 oz. sodas at $1.00 US just to say that I hand the merchant some money
when I'm using his tables.
When his stock expands to historical minis (right now it's GW-only) I'll
be able to buy more than just soda, dice and general gaming stuff.
> When his stock expands to historical minis (right now it's GW-only)
I'll be
> able to buy more than just soda, dice and general gaming stuff.
Good man! I know my friend's store is pretty much the same way, even though
he tries to whip up interest in Vicky Sci-Fi with his own painted
Germans
and Brits and Fuzzy's and what-have-you. The market IS a terrible task
master.
BTW, he's happy with profit on $.50 cans...
Now's my obligatory 'I've got to get my FT fleets out to ensnare the
unsuspecting'.
The_Beast
> Tim Gray wrote:
> >>I looked online for an MSDS on the green stuff, but couldn't find it
I did say "if all else fails", didn't I? <g>
Last time I checked the "Where to buy putty" links didn't have that good a
geographical coverage, but that was some time ago. Maybe they've improved
since :-/
Later,