> > >Range (Info): 24" 48" 72" 96" 120"
What tactical uncertainty? You're going to know everything about the enemy
before getting within firing range. We play on a large table but rarely does
many ships get up to speed 30. We have fun with the sensor rolls vs jamming,
especially when someone is trying to sneak in a needle beam or wave gun armed
ship into the fray.
Any new sensors rules have to cover all styles of play. This
so-called simple one isn't our style.
Speaking of centimeters, how does that play out using large miniatures? We've
talked about doing it, especially when someone
does bring in high drive ships and get to speeds of 40+. But all
I can see is a big jumble of miniatures getting entangled, having all those
fiddly bits knocked off (i.e. warp nacelles), for those trying to stay within
area defense range of each other. And I'm getting really tired of reglueing
those fiddly bits back on (the old SFB minis are really bad for this).
Glen
> On 2-May-00 at 09:14, GBailey@aol.com (GBailey@aol.com) wrote:
Fiddly bits knocked off? I didn't think you could knock the fiddly bits off of
the plastic ones without destroying them. Do you use Testors model cemement?
It seems to melt the plastic together. As for the others, I epoxy everything
and to date have only had 1 base break, and that because someone stepped on
it.
> On 2-May-00 at 09:14, GBailey@aol.com (GBailey@aol.com) wrote:
From: "Roger Books" <books@mail.state.fl.us>
> On 2-May-00 at 09:14, GBailey@aol.com (GBailey@aol.com) wrote:
> Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 09:21:45 -0400 (EDT)
roger,
how did you epoxy the ships on the stands and get them to dry straight, since
it takes a couple of hours to set with enough viscosity? did you use
epoxy putty/ribbon?
*please* tell me how there is a viable epoxy solution!
dave
> On 3-May-00 at 10:02, David Reeves (davidar@nortelnetworks.com) wrote:
First, my ships aren't perfectly straight. I drill a small hole in the bottom,
mix my quick set epoxy and put in the hole, then I insert a piece of channel
brass (U shaped cross section). push the top of the ship into some styrofoam
and use whatever is handy to prop the brass where I want it. It's usually hard
in about 15 minutes. I have a square tube attached to the bases using similar
methods. When I want to play I drop the ships brass tubing into the base
tubing and go.
I have a webserver now, I'll have to do a few pictures and post them.
> From: Roger Books
> how did you epoxy the ships on the stands and get them to dry straight,
> epoxy putty/ribbon?
Personally, I follow these rules:
Heavy bits on the bottom ( ie glue the stand to the model, not the model to
the stand). Have the heavy model on the table, with the stand sticking up in
the air.
Use plasticene ("silly putty" in the US I think) to hold the parts together.
In a relatively cold climate - less than 80F - this has enough stiffness
for at least 24 hrs. In a hotter climate, the Epoxy cures faster, so 2 hrs is
enough.
After the first time that a plastic stand breaks off a model, use a
pin-vice
drill to drill out the bit of plastic sticking in the hole, and drill slightly
into the metal as well. Now also drill a hole in the stand, about 1cm (
1/4"
- 1/3") from the top of the stand down towards its base. Then get a
common-or-garden
paper metal paper clip, cut it to length to use as a pin. Super Glue or Epoxy
in place.
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