Made my first tubular brass base for FT (SemFed BB from Brigade.... love that
model
Tony!).
Problems:
1) Squaring a hole in the bottom of the BB -
most files wouldn't work (not enough travel) and the dremel likes to make
rounded corners. Suggestions? One idea is filling excess
(assuming round-ish hole) with Plastic Metal or
some such compound for filler.
2) Installation of brass outer collar - I think I
know the answer here - I installed it by cutting a
small outer collar to rest up against the hull and enclose the inner mounting
tube (to give a bearing surface for the stand that was not the ship bottom).
However, I applied cyanoacrylate to the inner tube and slid it on, and it
stuck about a 0.5 mm out from the hull (fast drying ^%$$!!), I'm assuming that
I should get some slower drying glue here....
3) Installation of brass stand into old GeoHex base. How do you gaurantee
verticality and perpendicularity in both relevant axes? Any tricks? I was
thinking the application of some more plastic metal at the joint would also be
wise to reinforce it.... but it might be unaesthetic. Strikes me that one
basedepth is a small contact area for a 90 degree join...?
Thoughts and input appreciated. The concept seems very cool.... I obviously
just need to refine the implementation so it is faster and more effective.
Tomb.
Thomas Barclay schrieb:
> Made my first tubular brass base for FT
I have used a slightly different approach. Round tubes cut at a 45 degree
angle. This is enough to ensure a reasonably stable direction of the mini.
Solves the first two problems. Aligning the upright part on the stand is still
not really easy, though.
See:
> On 3-Apr-02 at 01:59, Thomas Barclay (kaladorn@magma.ca) wrote:
Make a round hole and fill with epoxy. I prefer the kind from the auto store
that is a putty. Green stuff is a bit weak for this evolution.
> 2) Installation of brass outer collar
I've never bothered with this, the stand ends up resting on the epoxy anyway.
> 3) Installation of brass stand into old GeoHex
I use the pewter bases for starships from GZG. I square the circle on top up
with a dremel so the square brass tubing is fairly tight, then use epoxy to
hold it in place. The epoxy has enough time before hardenning that you can
eyeball it perpendicular.
One note, don't try to eyeball if your work surface has lines running at an
angle to perpendicular. DAMHIKT.
> On 4/2/02 10:54 PM, "Thomas Barclay" <kaladorn@magma.ca> wrote:
> Problems:
I don't. I just has to be a round hole (drilled) such that the sqaure bit
fits. The epoxy I use fills the rest.
> 2) Installation of brass outer collar
It goes on at the same time. The epoxy usually gets into the gap and cements
it there. Otherwise, put it where it needs to got and then add a drop of glue
capillary action will do the rest.
> 3) Installation of brass stand into old GeoHex
I eyeball it. However, having two small perfect squares of plastic to hold
next to it should ensure perpendicularity.
> Made my first tubular brass base for FT Tony!).
> Problems:
I use a short piece of round rod that just fits into the square tube that will
become the shaft of the base. When I epoxy the round rod into the square, it
fills the void in the corners very well.
> ship bottom). However, I applied cyanoacrylate
Yeah, I use 5-minute epoxy for just that reason (meaning I did the same
thing).
> 3) Installation of brass stand into old GeoHex
I use a bench press myself, though if you don't have access to one it would be
a bit tricky. I haven't had much success using the Mark I eyeball. Dremel does
make a frame you can fit some models of rotary tools into to make it work like
a small bench press.
I'm getting ready to mount my new Japanese fleet, so maybe I'll get off my bum
and take some pictures that can be posted (I've always intended to have a web
presence...)
> At 01:54 AM 4/3/02 -0500, you wrote:
*shudder* I wouldn't recommend it, but I'd guess that wood carving techniques
would come in handy here... Round hole, of roughly the diameter that the sides
of the square will be... Then gentle and precise use of very small, fine
chisels would work.
Otherwise... Well, heat/flash melting would work, but be very very
ugly. Not to mention dangerous, more work than its worth, etc.
Those are all that come to mind off hand. But, knowing the creative tool types
I hang out with, someone's bound to know how, if it's possible given the
circumstances.
Now... Would someone explain how Brass tubing makes a detachable base?
Around here, I saw someone who uses screw-barrel[1] jewelry connectors
to
quick attach/detach bases and ships. Works marvelously.
[1] Don't know thier actual name, but they look like a barrel when
together. They split in half, around the middle of the curve section of
the barrel, with a threaded and corresponding screw ends. They're used in
inexpensive jewel (re- bead or woven thread type jewelry) and I've seen
them at hobby stores[2].
[2] For those of you not blessed (or is that blessed) by having "hobby"
stores, or those of you like me who were self-centered enough to think
that a hobby store would certainly carry your hobby supplies... There are
chains of stores that sell all kinds of stuff that are considered
"traditional" hobby supplies, but you'll almost never find role-playing
stuff, games, or mini's (unless it's doll-house mini's) there [3].
[3] However, if you have even the smallest amount of imagination,
scratch build materials, terrain materials, etc. can be found in abundance
there.
> On Wed, Apr 03, 2002 at 10:41:55AM -0800, W. Nitsche wrote:
That's one of the reasons I've given up on cyanoacrylate; the other is that
I've found it has a tendency to be very brittle, particularly after a few
months and if it has any "structural" role (e.g. filling gaps) rather than
just being a thin layer between surfaces. I'm sure it has
its uses, but miniature-work (for me at least) isn't among them.