FMA Skirmish comments and questions

4 posts ยท Jul 12 1999 to Jul 13 1999

From: Thomas Barclay <Thomas.Barclay@s...>

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 11:51:11 -0400

Subject: FMA Skirmish comments and questions

Comments:

> Laserlight wrote:

Too large, in fact. May I suggest you put the initial blast radius at whatever
you wish, then have it fall off one die type per 1", so a weapon that is D10
at 2" will be d8 at 3", d6 at 4", and d4 at 5"? This still covers a 20 meter
diameter circle.

** Not really. From what I understand, with real defensive grenades, you quite
likely can hit anything within (someone who knows for sure
check me) about 50-100m depending on the model. They are very nasty.
Meant to be deployed while you are entrenched or behind a damn solid cover
chunk.

--------------------------
SHOTGUNS: ** A shotgun must be an area weapon which lets you hit multiple
targets, intended or not. It is very dangerous to fire into crowds. And an
autoshotgun is the best hallway clearance device ever invented. The string
idea wasn't bad. Or the one I saw from another skirmish game where you put
down two pennies a distance from the shooter, then deviate them to form the
cone. Of course, thankfully no one has yet mentioned 40mm Cannister rounds for
the GLs.... OOooops....
------------------------------
FLAMERS:

> Brendan wrote:

Flamers: Using a standard tape measure (~1/3-1/2" wide), measure 10"
from the firer strait over the target. Everything touched by the tape measure
is hit by a FP:d12, I: d8 attack. Cover has no effect. Miss: suppression
Minor Hit: suppression + automatic combat move directly away from the
firer (terror effect)
Major hit: hit + suppression + automatic combat move directly away.

However the drawback is; when the flame junkie takes a HIT, if he gets a 1 on
the armour roll, then his feul tank has been hit & explodes as a FP:d12, POI:
1" blast grenade, automatically suppressing anyone in range (& obviously
killing the poor shmuck).

** You missed the "light you up like a roman candle" effect. How about this:
If you get a "hit" from a flamer (the major hit), each subsequent
turn, roll a d4. On a 1-2, the fire is out. On a 3-4, you take another
hit with impact d8. While "lit up", you must make a "Gut check" (roll to
exceed twice your motivation) to do anything other than try to put out the
fire. If you do make this check, whatever you do has a one level negative die
shift (you are, after all, on fire...). Each action you spend trying to
separate yourself from the burning fuel (stop drop and roll, or smother it, or
whatever), you may roll another d4. If somebody is helping, for every action
they expend, they can roll a d4. (Unless they happen, for some odd reason, to
be packing a fire extinguisher in which case one action should be sufficient).
The idea of flamer victims staggering around burning is not attractive, but it
is probably somewhat real.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Comments In General: 1) It would be nice to see the fuller HTH rules Jon
obviously has in mind (see costing section for hints).

2) Rifles.... I know the idea is to make a skirmish game. But a
standard combat rifle has 12" range bands. Meaning 0-24, 25-48m,
49-72m ranges. 144m if aimed. I know several guys who can shoot tacks
off of targets at 50m. Hitting a man sized target out to 400m isn't that hard.
And they are what you would call Regulars (if that) firing aimed fire. 144m
maximum range for a rifle seems a little awry. (Or have I read something
wrong?). If you want to make grenades and explosives accurate, you might want
to think about your weapon range
bands. One approach to this would be making the bands non-linear.

ie: Short 0-12", Medium 13-48", Long 49-96".  (this translates to
0-24m short, 25-96m medium, 97-192m long, and aimed it would mean a
max range of about 384m, closer to the 400m usual effective range on modern
rifles).

This means you still only hit well at close ranges (under 100m), but you can
hit out to longer distances. Even 200m isn't all that far in the modern day.

3) In the section on suppresion, you cite an example of PA having d12x2 armour
(and being unbothered by hits from small arms) but then in the armour section,
no personal armour has that high of an armour value. I understood the purpose
of the example, but it seems a poor choice given the later section on armour
not matching it.

From: Tim Jones <Tim.Jones@S...>

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 17:02:48 +0100

Subject: RE: FMA Skirmish comments and questions

> Flamers: Using a standard tape measure (~1/3-1/2" wide), measure 10"

Area Weapons Effects - use an acetate template rather then measuring,
there were some nice ones in the old kyomek game. If created as a GIF these
could be scaled and printed for various weapons and backgrounds. It would save
a lot of fannying
about on the games table with a rule/tape/stick.

From: Barry Cadwgan <bcadwgan@f...>

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 07:38:36 +1000

Subject: Re: FMA Skirmish comments and questions

> Tim Jones wrote:

What I've done is make up a template using coathanger wire, with an arm
angling up at 45 degrees to the center and a vertical post dropping again. It
works pretty well.

From: Robertson, Brendan <Brendan.Robertson@d...>

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 11:45:37 +1000

Subject: RE: FMA Skirmish comments and questions

I was trying to avoid templates, however, I do have quite a few of the EE
(tm) flamer templates lying around.   The old second edition templates
are
the right size for blast radius/diameters (1"(2")/2"(4")/3"(6")).

'Neath Southern Skies - http://users.mcmedia.com.au/~denian/
Commodore Alfred K Hole - RNS Indy's Folly [CB]
Captain Nicolette O'Teen - RNMS Golden Spear [CB]
EBD Medusa

> -----Original Message-----