From: Tim Jones <Tim.Jones@S...>
Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:43:51 +0100
Subject: RE: [EFSB/B5W] Vorchan stand mounting
> want to permanently attach it). The metal stand post peg is much too The nested brass tube method (Schoon et al): " I got GW flying bases - they are available in small (25mm) and large (60mm) varieties. When ordering from GW, make sure to tell them not to include the posts; it will save you 50%!! Use the small ones for small ships and fighters, and the large ones for anything that you're worried might tip over. Next, head out to a hobby shop and get either brass tube or brass squares in three different sizes that will fit snugly into one another. For fighter bases you'll also need some small diameter brass rod (I think 1/16th). For smaller ships, use the two smaller sizes for the following steps, and for larger ships, use the two larger. Cut 35mm and 5mm sections of the larger "tube," and a 15-25mm section of the smaller. The 35mm section gets epoxied into the GW clear circular base. Put the 5mm section over the smaller piece, and epoxy both into the miniature's mounting hole. Make sure that they're perpendicular BEFORE the epoxy sets. Now you have a figure that can be put in the stand for play, and taken out for transport or storage. In fact, you only need enough lower stands to fit as big of a battle as you expect to play, as they're interchangable (with the exception of small vs. large dia.). They have no angles or markers, so you'll need "rings" for during play, but on the other hand, they look really classy, and no matter how many times they change the rules, you never have to change bases again " The necklace clasp method (Keith): " First, I always sand off the thinner top part of the post (the part that goes into the model) and replace it with a necklace barrel clasp. After super gluing it to the post, I super glue the other end to the model. After the super glue is dry, I put epoxy where the clasp meets metal (of the model and of the post). In this way, the glue gives you a quick (but brittle) bond, which holds everything in place long enough for the epoxy to set. The result is very strong and also allows the model to be removed from the base for storage. Oh, remove the little hoops from each end of the clasp, of course, but also use super glue gel - the standard stuff runs down the edges and glues the clasp together! Second, for my scratchbuilt fleet I used 1 1/4" flat washers and 3/8" piece of metal tubing (the same diameter as the hole in the washer). Glue the tubing to the base and put a piece of epoxy putty in the top of the tubing and push the bottom of the necklace clasp into the putty. I made a a template to put the 12-hour marks on the base. Works pretty well, looks nice, and like the first, it allows the model to be separated from the base for storage. "