Dropships vs. Dropcaps:
Why assume the cap goes down with no thrust and the dropship with?
Also, if they both had no thrust, the cap should have higher V(terminal).
If they both have thrust, figure the mass being pushed against air resistance
is less for the dropcap. (Or more particularly, I'd assume a higher thrust to
mass ratio for the DC, plus some ablative components).
And you can catch something that falls out of a plane, if you can both get to
V(terminal) and your V(terminal) is faster. (ie skydiver A goes into
widespread attitude, resulting in lower V(terminal) and skydiver B dives
(faster V(terminal)) to catch up.
Lead Rot:
Henrix and Allan seem to be talking about different things. Lead Rot (affects
lead) and Pewter Plague (affects tin). In the former case, I'd
suspect temp is either a non-factor or cold inhibits. In the later, I
defer to Henrix and assume that colder temperatures are bad. Seems to me
that an ideal storage temperature would then be around 16-18 C. (Good
compromise). Storage should be in plastic cases.
Here are some questions: 1) What will seal the lead mini without providing
acetic acid? The list Allan uses is huge (in that it encompases most paints
and glues!).
2) I'd guess a treatment of cleaning using a base to neutralize the acetic
acid (baking soda or soda water?) and then a cutting or grinding or wire
brushing off the powder might remove the infection. Then comes the sealing
task. What to use? How to attach the mini to its base if epoxy and PVA and
cyanoacrylate are problematic?
3) For the Pewter Plague, what is the prophylaxis?
I don't want to be beset by either of these.
Also, how would lead in things like hydro wire insulation and such be
protected? Or lead ingots?
My father restored a 1935 Ford V8 3-window coupe. After the restoration,
we had it painted. A year or two later, the paints at the joints
bubbled. He explained they used lead solder on the joints. The later-day
painters didn't probably apply the protective sealant that Ford originally did
(now I'm gonna try to find out what the heck it was!) and so the lead
eventually bubbled the paint by some process (which, given they probably have
acidic enamel paint, probably fits your description of lead rot!). Original
factory work sealed the joints.
Odd how things in my life seem strangely interconnected.....
T.
> >2) I'd guess a treatment of cleaning using a base to neutralize the
by soda water you mean carbonated water? Is CO2 a base? It's not the same a
baking soda, which is a base.
> Dropships vs. Dropcaps:
Sure, you can power the cap. That raises your cost significantly. And would
almost definitely be used to slow down the cap, to keep the cap from becoming
a ballistic splat. *shudder* Bad thoughts of Kra'vak and
caps...
Terminal V is usually fast enough, it's the slowing down without hurting
that's the hard part.
> Also, if they both had no thrust, the cap should have higher
Possibly... You're assuming mismatched aerodynamics. I will note, that in this
atmosphere, a bowling ball and a feather, the bowling ball comes down faster.
Yes, mismatched aerodynamics, but in the other direction than yours.:)
> If they both have thrust, figure the mass being pushed against air
First statement I won't agree with. Second sounds fine... But also note less
fuel... Specifically I doubt it has enough fuel to accelerate and
de-accelerate... There's also the fact that at some point, you get a
very ineffieciant way to ship people down... Lot of money, mass, and volume
per pod for little to no advantage.
> And you can catch something that falls out of a plane, if you can both
Yep, you can. No arguements. And if you put a jetpack on the back of one, they
can catch someone without such. However, which will make it to the
earth, alive, first, the plane they jumped out of, the freefalling skydiver,
or the man with a jetpack?
> 2) I'd guess a treatment of cleaning using a base to neutralize the
Might I suggest reversing that... Clean the area first, then use the base?
You're more likely to penetrate the infected areas that way. Not
sure on this, however.
> On Mon, 10 Jun 2002, Laserlight wrote:
> > >2) I'd guess a treatment of cleaning using a base to neutralize the
Nope.. Soda water'd be acidic.
Cheers,
> At 07:15 AM 6/11/2002 +0200, you wrote:
AFAIK it's carbonic acid...
> Cheers,
> Tomb wrote:
Keep it where it's not cold, i.e. room temperature.
Keep it away from non-metallic tin (seal it properly after painting). If
you handle a mini you think may be infected, quarantine it, and wash your
hands before you handle others. And, the best, but a little hard to do after
the mini is done, make sure
there are trace elements of antimony (or bismuth, but that is far less
common). like Jon says there is in the alloy GZG uses.
There's not much else one can do.
Funny how all swedes I ever talked to about it call it pewter plague, while
you english speaking talk about lead rot. The symptoms seem very similar. This
probably just means that: a) Once you've heard of some sort of solution you're
likely to stay by it, and
b) Cold is more of a problem in sweden than acetic acid is ;-)
____