From: Bruce S. R. Lee <bsrlee@w...>
Date: Sun, 01 Mar 1998 23:35:11 +1100
Subject: Re: Custom Mini Moulds
Making 2 peice moulds is not hard. When you are making the modeling clay base for the model to be pressed into, just use a blunt instrument to make a few vaguely conical or 1/2 round dimples in the corners. When you make pt.2 just ensure that the rubber flows into the holes - you don't even have to worry too much about air bubbles in the hole really, just enough to locate the pieces. If you have problems with surface bubbles, buy some of the cheap nylon paint brushes that are sold in bargain stores for little kids to play with - usually a card of 10 or so brushes. I then used this to paint the rubber onto the model and work it into the detail ensuring a complete skin - you still have the inevitable small bubbles in the body of the mould but these are less of a problem. This has worked for me for some time, but I now have access to a vacuum chamber to de-air my rubber, and when I get off my backside, the resin for 25mm vehicle models (I'm using 1 piece main moulds with a non detailed plug of silicone to reduce the ammount of resin). IMHO small models are easier cast in tin/lead - I have scrounged old pewter from charity stores and keep all my trimmings - you get a hard model but the detail is ok & you don't burn the mould like happens if you use pure lead - these lead figures are the ones you see with dud paint jobs and blobby detail for sale at small cons. You can also save about a teaspoon of rubber when making moulds for lead by making a basic pouring gate of clay and attaching it to the clay pad.