Concertina Wire, Camo Netting, Barbed Wire in 25mm

For barbed wire I use car body repair mesh (stiff metal mesh) you cut along
the line so it leaves "stubs" of metal sticking out both sides. roll it and
you have concertina wire.. drape it whole, painted and bentto shape, add flock
and you have camo netting. and its cheap.

> -----Original Message-----

Hi all.

You modellers out there who knew 50 ways to make rivets ought to surely have
some suggestions on:

Straight strand barbed wire.

Roll concertina (razor) wire.

Cam netting. Specifically the netting that has leafy bits of plastic hanging
off it.

How can I best fab these in 25mm?

In a message dated 9/10/99 1:12:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> Thomas.Barclay@sofkin.ca writes:

<<
Roll concertina (razor) wire.
> [quoted text omitted]

Carefully "unscrew" the wire backing from a LARGE spiral notebook. use
straight pins or wire every four or five inches for supporting posts

In a message dated 9/10/99 1:12:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> Thomas.Barclay@sofkin.ca writes:

<<
Cam netting. Specifically the netting that has leafy bits of plastic hanging
off it.
> [quoted text omitted]

Use single layers of gauze (first aid or fabric shop) drape it carefully and
not too tautly on whatever form is appropriate and lightly spray in base for
camo pattern. It will stiffen in the desired shape

In a message dated 9/10/99 1:12:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> Thomas.Barclay@sofkin.ca writes:

<< Straight strand barbed wire. >>

Use whatever is appropriiate for fence posts and using superglue hang very
thin monofilament between the posts in strands. You can top with notebook
coils for the concedrtina on top of the fence. It should be two to three

inches tall.

> Thomas Barclay wrote:

> Roll concertina (razor) wire.

I use paddle wire that I wrap around a dowel of the proper diamter and cut
with scissors or wire cutters to the proper length. Paddle wire can be found
in craft supply stores or the craft section of a department store. It's what
they use to wrap floral arrangements, I'm told. I like the 26 gauge wire. It
works well and is very inexpensive. It's only a few dollars for 540 ft of the
stuff. Once you wrap it and then
pull in off the dowel, you can expect about 25-35 feet of good looking
coils. You can also use this for smaller and larger scales, just adjust the
height of the coils. They are usually about hip high on a standing man. I've
experimented with different kinds techniques to actually get the little barbs
on the the wire. I'm not happy with any of them. Usually, when you go to pack
up or set up again, the little barbs tangle and you end up with a big mess.
But this could just be the way I pack up the wire. I like the idea that Mike
Wikan suggested, with wire mesh cut into strips, though I've never tried it.
The advantage to the technique I'm suggesting is that its cheap and fast.
While it doesn't give you the barbs, everyone looking at it knows exactly what
it is. You can make a bunch of it prior to the meeting, or bring the wire with
you and make the coils while you're setting up. It really saves on storage
space. If anyone saw my Charlie Company games at MonCon this year, the NDP
scenario I ran used this technique. I handed the players the amount of wire
they had on hand, and they placed it where they wanted it. It worked well;
they shaped it to the contour of the ground and around a couple of obstacles.
It looked good.

State Side I know there is a company "Hudson Allen Studios", I believe they
are called, who make some very nice terrain bits. They do small bagged kits of
mud, asphalt, snow, tall grass, and more specifically "Ivy". The ivy kit is a
bunch of individual leaves. So I imagine to do leafy cammo netting with this
kit all you need to do is find an appropriate net material, coat it with some
sort of glue, then sprinkle these "ivy" leaves over it. I'm not to sure if
this is what

> On Fri, 10 Sep 1999, Thomas Barclay wrote:

> Hi all.

I don't know - the fine-mesh-strip method has been recommended, and I've
seen some nice looking wire done this was, but I've never done it. I
should - I've got some appropriate mesh somewhere on my workbench...

> Roll concertina (razor) wire.

I use very thin wire - I think it's 0.005" or similar, sold at the
hardware store as 'hobby wire'. Just wrap it around a dowel or something
-
hip or waist high on your figures as someone else said. I've got a few
lengths of this as scenery - it looks pretty good. No 'barbs', but razor
wire really doesn't have obvious barbs on it.

> Cam netting. Specifically the netting that has leafy bits of plastic

Medical gauze. See <http://warbard.iwarp.com/scenery.html> for full
details, but basically peg it out on a board, paint it, and sprinkle green
flocking/ground foam on it while the paint is still wet. Looks really
good, and it's fast.

Have fun with modelling,

And of course mono wire: Find 2 anchor points (call it left an right) such as
trees, posts, etc. Cut a piece of cardboard equal in length to the distance
between the anchor
points. Flock the cardboard. Paint a red line on it length-wise. Smear
the red line. Setup: Before the monowire is discovered: Nothing After someone
stumbles across it: Place flocked cardboard with red line. Remove figure that
"found" the wire.

;-)

---
Brian Bell bkb@beol.net <mailto:bkb@beol.net>
http://members.xoom.com/rlyehable/
---

[quoted original message omitted]

> On Fri, 10 Sep 1999, Brian Bell wrote:

> And of course mono wire:

Yech. Yuck. Ewwwwww. And similar exclamations...

Besides, wasn't the concensus of the list that monowire was probably
impractical because it would cut through whatever it was mounted to, as well
as whoever tried to handle it?

I seem to recall we had a thread on the stuff some time back.

Brian (yh728@victoria.tc.ca)
-DS2/SG2/FR!/HOTT-
                   - http://warbard.iwarp.com/games.html -
-SciFi & Fantasy Wargaming House Rules, Photos, GWAutobasher, & more-

> ---

> Yech. Yuck. Ewwwwww. And similar exclamations...

It turns out that it won't cut through biphase carbide, so you can use them as
stakes. It was in the last issue of Popular PSB.

> At 9:10 PM -0700 9/10/99, Brian Burger wrote:

QUICK!!! Call the Narn Bat Squad!!!

Although, compared to some puns I've seen on this list, that one was a little
thin.

> At 9:27 PM -0700 9/10/99, Ndege Diamond wrote:

I'll take a lifetime subscription!

And I may set up a similar area on Imperial Dispatches, it's too useful an
idea to ignore.

> On Fri, 10 Sep 1999, Michael Llaneza wrote:

> >At 9:10 PM -0700 9/10/99, Brian Burger wrote:

Well, it was cut off from its supports.

Actually, that was an unintentional pun. Really. Honest.

Call off the Narns! Call off the Naaaaaaa...THUMP...THUMP...THUMP...

:>

For dirtside forces I recommend taking the spring in your old ball point pens
and using it fr concertina. Just stretch it out. It works perfect!

> Straight strand barbed wire.

I have used the "wire mesh" method mentioned earlier to good effect but be
careful when you buy the wire mesh. There are 2 types commonly available:

The first is completely useless for this type of work. It is a wire mesh made
up of strands of wire that have been weaved into a mesh, but not joined
together where they cross over each other (like a very loose fabric). If you
cut a strip off this, the wire will unravel and you will
end up with lots of little bits of wire - completely useless.

The type you want is made of strands of wire which are joined (I'm not sure
how) where they cross - so if you cut a strip off, the bits stick
together. You can use a sharp pair of scissors to cut strips one wire thick,
and this will leave that one wire with a bunch of wire stubs sticking off all
along it's length. You then roll this up around a suitably shaped tube (wooden
dowel, broom handle if not too thick, etc) and stretch out a bit. Stick it
down to a base and flock if you want a permanent piece. Detailing to your
taste.

For straight strand barbed wire, you can use the same stuff, just sticking it
to upright posts instead of rolling it. Works great, and is very obvious what
it is.

You can also get a mesh that is a plastic material, commonly used as the
screen in screen windows. This works well for all kinds of modelling
detailing, and the straight barbed wire, but not for the rolled wire, as it
won't hold it's shape when you roll it. It cuts with a hobby knife, scissors,
etc, and is very easy to work with. I use it alot for detailing
the surface of "sci-fi" terrain, by sticking it down onto painted on,
thinned down white glue.

> Cam netting. Specifically the netting that has leafy bits of plastic

Medical gauze, painted with primer and coloured with sprays or brush on
paint, and then stick on flock of different types/colours.  Model train
stores often have flock of different grades, with "large particle" and very
fine "small particle" types. Use a mix of the two. If you are keen to use a
lot of flock, don't bother painting the gauze with anything other than a black
spray, and then use spray adhesive to attach the flock. Spray the gauze with
spray adhesive, and then sprinkle on different types of flock on different
areas, in a camo pattern. As with any terrain with lots of flocking (ie trees
also), it is worth giving them a final coat of hairspray to "lock down" all
the flock.

Have fun.

> Straight strand barbed wire.

For either of these, take a small gauge wire and wrap it with a wire about
half the size, made much esier with a moto-tool of some sort. The wire
can be purchased at a home store cheaply, and the end result can either be
rolled for concertina or laid straight for barbed.

See the pictures page on the arorcast page - http://armorcast.com/ in
the news section under RAGE WH40K at Normandy.

> Cam netting. Specifically the netting that has leafy bits of plastic

Painted screen door mesh is good. I wouldn't bother with "leafy bits" at 25mm.

> Hi all.

I picked up some metal-mesh ribbon at an after-Christmas sale.
Trim the edges and glue it to toothpicks for microarmor wire mesh
("hurricane") fence. Or cut it into individual strands
longways and twist to get barbed wire for 15mm-35mm scales.

- Sam

I stumbled aross some aluminum mesh that fits the bill quite nicely at
Michaels (N. American craft store chain for you guys on the other side of the
'pond')

The 12"x24' was $4.99 but the way I figure it when cut in strips one 'wire'
wide that is less than 5 cents a foot for 25mm concertina wire!

SC

> I stumbled aross some aluminum mesh that fits the bill quite nicely at

I have a roll of "Wire Form...expandable modeling armature for sculpture,
model making, arts and crafts" - which is an aluminum mesh.  20" wide by
10' long roll for about $20 Canadian. Produced by "Paragona Art Products, Inc"
of Santa Monica, California. Great stuff with MANY different applications in
modelling. For those not in N.America, I suggest looking for similar in art
supply stores, if you can't find good aluminum mesh in a DIY or automotive
suppy store.

I have been using barbed wire with all of my 25/28mm games and I had
found a quick simple and easy to utilize option of making it. I had purchased
a roll of the plastic screen material after my dog had tried to jump through
the door to get the post man. When I was done replacing the screen, I had
noticed that many of the off cuts that I had remaining, when cut as one long
single strip from the mesh, that the cut portions of the 'horizontal' section
looked like spikes. I then purchased a box of wooden matches, cut the heads
off and used the xacto on the 'square' edges to make them look a little more
rough. Then I had used a small amount of super glue to fasten the 'wire' to
the posts. The posts were connected to a base and wound up as I went along to
make the wire seem coiled. The effect was perfect. All I had to do was paint
it all.

I had tried the aluminum type mesh, but with the guys I normally play with,
they had a tendency to get crushed and not replaceable easily. With the
plastic screen material, the guys could do their worst and not have any
lasting effects on the wire. It just bounced back to it's original position
and that was that. All they have to do now is worry about them stabbing
themselves on the wooden stakes... If anyone is interested in photos, please
contact me privately and I will forward some on to you.