Greetings All, I recently bought the GZG April Fools Stargrunt deal, so I'm
sitting
on 48 25mm figures. I know in the rules they recommend 1 inch wide bases, and
there are occasions where that inch can be important, but I'm
not particularly eager to stick such small figures on such a large base
- it seems out of proportion to me. I notice on some webpages and even
in the rule book figures are occasionally used with just the molded on base,
and I'm thinking of going that route. Has anyone had any serious problems with
that strategy? My major concern is with the figures standing up actually. All
my terrain is in another city, so I can't take them for a "test stand" on my
hills and so forth.
Thanks,
> On 27 Apr 2003 at 10:25, Nick Wesson wrote:
> I recently bought the GZG April Fools Stargrunt deal, so I'm
> base, and I'm thinking of going that route.
For stability and uniformity I mount all my GZG (and most other
manufacturers') minis on 1p coins. These are about 20mm or 3/4"
across and look just fine. Of course this done mean that I know have
the price of a pint or two stuck on my shelves and in boxes. :-(
> At 10:25 AM 4/27/03 -0400, you wrote:
> - it seems out of proportion to me. I notice on some webpages and even
> in the rule book figures are occasionally used with just the molded on
> problems with that strategy? My major concern is with the figures
For the sake of consistancy, I mounted all my GZG guys on washers.
1/2", I
think -- maybe 3/4". It does have the side benefit of making them more
stable as well, but they seemed to be plenty stable on their own. On a really
steep slope, the washer base would probably come in handy, though.
> in the rule book figures are occasionally used with just the molded
I'd put them on 3/4 washers or something about that size--takes up
about half the space (9/16) and makes them magnetic.
> Nick Wesson wrote:
For the sake of safety, don't do that. Some of them have pointy bits.
> For the sake of safety, don't do that. Some of them have pointy bits.
Explain *that* to a Dr.Thankfully they have that base attached to facilitate
easy removal...
Damo
On Sun, 27 Apr 2003 10:25:34 -0400, Nick Wesson
<nick.wesson@ca.inter.net> wrote:
> I know in the rules they recommend 1 inch wide
> - it seems out of proportion to me.
I wouldn't recommend 1" wide bases, as it will make it hard to squeeze the
figures in close enough when you need to get a couple of squads in tight
together.
A 3/4" washer is better.
> Has anyone had any serious
All of my Japanese and NSL figures are just on their own bases. Having said
that, I'm now looking at having to go back and place _all_ of them on
washers. My 25mm Phalons are on bases.
I really recommend basing the Power Armour figures on washers if nothing else.
They tend to be more top heavy than the regular SG2 figures.
The main reason I'm basing the rest of the figures on washers is that I have
come up with a way of getting rid of the SG2 quality/leadership and
confidence markers. I printed up sheets of 1s, 2s, 3s, and each of the two
letter confidence settings on coloured paper. I used spray adhesive to glue
them onto thin magnetic sheeting, and then I punched them out with a small
one-hole
punch. I am now painting more thin magnetic sheet in green to match my table
cloth. I will cut out the green sheets into squares. I have tested this system
and it works well: I place a square under the squad leader's figure and then
put two circles, one for leadership/quality, one for confidence, on the
square. The square is stuck to the leader's base due to the base being a
washer and the square being a magnet. I can replace the circles on the square.
It takes up far less space than the counters and is less obtrusive, and yet it
is still easy to read. Better than that, the counters move with the squad
leader!
To do this, I have to have all the figures, or at least the SLs, mounted on
washers. I'm going to mount all of them on washers to be consistent. It will
also make all the figures more stable. I wish I had done this in the first
place...
With only one exception, I base every model in my collection on GW plastic
slottabases. Mostly I use the 25mm round ones, but if models are larger, I use
the 40mm round or even the 60mm round and flat ones. I prefer a very
consistent look to my collection, and that provides it nicely. My
exception is my "Gladiator Wars" figures which require hex-bases for the
game and are therby mounted on such.
> --- Nick Wesson <nick.wesson@ca.inter.net> wrote:
> base, and I'm thinking of going that route. Has anyone had any
And how many kegs worth stuck on top of those pennies?
> On Sunday, April 27, 2003, at 07:33 AM, Steve Pugh wrote:
> On 27 Apr 2003 at 10:25, Nick Wesson wrote:
> On 27 Apr 2003 at 23:32, Tony Christney wrote:
I know. And they say lead is bad for your health?!?!
> Greetings All,
> - - it seems out of proportion to me. I notice on some webpages and
> problems with that strategy? My major concern is with the figures
Hi Nick,
I don't know where you're located, but if you have access to North American
pennies (either US or Canadian - they're the same size), you could try
using those.
I find that the moulded-in bases that come with the SG figures are just
too
small - the figs don't stand up well on their own. All of my figs are
based on pennies, and they work really well - a good combination of big
enough to help with tipping but not so big that the bases become obtrusive or
prevent the figures from bunching up when you need them to...
And, of course, they're... inexpensive.
The only issue with pennies (well, with any other type of base really) is
that you then have a gap around the bottom of figure - between the old
base
and the new base. I use 2-part 5-minute epoxy to glue the figs to the
pennies, and if you use the right quantity of glue, you can get it to "squish
out" around the edges of the existing base and go quite far toward filling
that gap. After the glue is dry, I use a quick drying modeling putty to fill
in the remaining gap.
It works well, looks seemless once the figures are completed (and I've flocked
the bases), and it certainly improves their stability.
If you'd like to take a peek at this method on a finished figure, check out:
http://www.stargrunt.ca/gallery_modeling/sg2_gal_gurkhas/sg2_gal_gurkhas
_8.htm
I use 3/4" steel fender washers. This allows easier storage since I
just line a toolbox with adhesive magnetic sheet and stick the figures to the
sheet.
The added weight to the bottom help keep the figures upright, and the extra
width also helps.
I attach the figures with epoxy, using wax paper on the bottom since a lot
runs out the hole in the middle. I either use epoxy putty, wall spackling or
more liquid epoxy to fill the height difference between the figure base and
the washer.
This is a bit more expensive than using pennies (6 cents per base rather than
1) but the added utility of having a steel washer that sticks to magnets is
worth the extra cost to me.
I have seen some people use the thick magnetic strips cut into circular bases.
This means you can stick the figure directly on to metal
surfaces. Might be useful for car games - you make a map on some thin
steel or thin sheet magnet and your figs will stay in place during travel.
--Binhan
> -----Original Message-----
-Adrian
********************************************
On 28-Apr-03 at 14:57, Adrian Johnson (adrian.johnson@sympatico.ca)
wrote:
> The only issue with pennies (well, with any other type of base really)
is
> that you then have a gap around the bottom of figure - between the old
I like to use wood putty for this. It is less hassle and doesn't shrink.
> At 10:51 AM 27/04/2003 -0500, you wrote:
Does someone have tried to use 3/4" base with 28-30mm figures? If so,
does it look silly?
Allan, your idea of using magnetic sheet with counter is the same I had. I
already have 4 feets square of magnetic sheet. For DS2, I put small bits of
metal on the bottom of all my DS2 plastic vehicule. I put a magnetic sheet in
a video casette case and all my army now fit in 3 cases. I can even turn the
case upside down and they stick (well, not always!).
All my 28-30mm figs are on 1" GW round base. I have glued 7/8" washer
inside the base. I had to grind the washer to remove the edge on the top.
The worst part is the round slotta based type: I actually cut the washer in 2
pieces (1 small, 1 bigger) and grind them a bit when they are too big. Lots of
work and I have lots of fig to do. At least, I have a 3 feet long cutter to
cut the washer. In any case, it definitively made the figure a lot more
stable. platic fig get the most benefit: You can incline them more than 45
degree and they come back on their feet when you release them (like the
inflatable boxing clown kids have)
I play a bit yesterday with small pieces of magnetic strip. I found that it
work but the smaller magnetic pieces should not be too small or else, it don't
stick too much. The reason I tried small part is that it could be useful to
represent other stuff as well, like ammo counter for smoke grenade, artillery
request, etc. That stuff need to be quite small if you
want to have more than 3-4 on the magnetic "tray" under the fig. In
fact, you can just have other figs carrying other counter when needed.
I would like if you can send me your file with the number/confidence
that
you use to for gluing on your magnetic sheet (off-list). That will help
me to quick start.
Now, I should try not to think rebasing my stuff on 3/4" washer...
Yves
> The main reason I'm basing the rest of the figures on washers is that I